Author Topic: Delage 15-S-8  (Read 53687 times)

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #30 on: 05 Oct 19, 01:15 pm »
thanks. things are going much more slowly because of school and the endless amounts of revision and work that brings. still working away at it though and will make lots of progress in the upcoming half term

Chris Brown

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #31 on: 16 Oct 19, 03:34 pm »
I'm tempted to follow you and go electric with the next kart, more expensive but easier installation in limited space. I'm at a model show this weekend, so I'll have a chat with Iain on the battery stand (trade prices), and see what ideas he can come up with.

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #32 on: 16 Oct 19, 08:47 pm »
ooh do share what you learn

Chris Brown

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #33 on: 18 Oct 19, 10:34 am »
Will do Marek, I'm looking at a 72V 3Kw brushless motor and controller with two syage regenerative braking. Inclined to go with NIMH batteries as they're sturdier electrically, no need for BMS. A 10Ah pack should give just under 15 minutes running at full power (41A draw), so with two packs one could be charging while the other is in use. I think the battery cost could ne the killer for me going electric, not outweighed by the easier installation in the confined space available.

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #34 on: 20 Oct 19, 08:39 am »
I am planning on using the golden motors 3KW motor (there are 2, either the 48V or 72V) and we haven't thought about batteries except for the fact that we need them and should probably try and get a company to sponsor them.

Chris Brown

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #35 on: 20 Oct 19, 05:25 pm »
The 72V motor would be more efficient than the 48V one due to the lower  current, and therefore lower heating losses. The battery cost would be much the same, as the lower voltage would need a higher capacity due to the higher current, in order to get the same duration.

I've had a ball park price from my battery supplier of £400 for a 72V 9Ah NIMH battery, and £600 for a 13Ah one, so as I suspected that rules out going electric.

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #36 on: 20 Oct 19, 05:59 pm »
also 72V is quite high and we spoke to someone from Surrey university's formula student team for some advice and he recommended not going above 50V because thats when things start to get more dangerous.

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #37 on: 30 Oct 19, 09:30 pm »
The last 3 days I have been working on the front suspension and a video will be coming out asap about that. Tomorrow I will be making the plates and U bolts to hold the front axle on, hopefully by stretton on Sunday I will have a chassis on all 4 wheels. :D

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #38 on: 30 Oct 19, 10:50 pm »
There it is. Video uploaded.

As always, please do share any ways you think I could improve my videos and feel free to ask any questions about the build :D :D



Chris Brown

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #39 on: 31 Oct 19, 09:27 am »
Great video Marek, stainless is a pain to work with, eats tools unless it's flooded with cutting fluid and you take small bites quickly. A slow cut will heat the steel through the tool rubbing, and it'll harden it, which is why it can be so difficult to work.

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #40 on: 31 Oct 19, 10:26 pm »
thanks for the advice

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #41 on: 31 Oct 19, 10:29 pm »
Another day, another video.

part 4 is here and I have a wheel attached to the chassis!


RhysN

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #42 on: 01 Nov 19, 06:50 am »
Another good video Marek. If I can a few observations though.
Your idea of not clamping your work will one day lead to a lot of pain, or worse. In a previous you were using a centre drill. That is the tool for getting your work properly aligned and then clamp it down, check again, and then replace the centre drill with drill bits. As you have available the great drill press you can wind the table down as you use longer, greater diameter drills. Please, I don't want to see you with some of the scars I have from trying to hold work pieces, even with mole grips, let alone by hand. I have shed a lot of blood from not  following good work practices. (In my case frequently from not having the equipment you have)
There's an old workshop saying" hacksaw with one hand, soon you will have only one hand to use". If/when you break a hacksaw blade, and the broken piece spears into the ball of the thumb of the hand you were holding your work piece, you will know why. Both hands on the saw, one doing the work at the handle, the other guiding at the front, always.
On your Christmas wish list, add an engineers hammer :) Carpenters hammer is for nails . You can never have enough hammers for the right purposes.
We must avoid torturing our brains with false problems, it occupies but it can annoy. In jest!

Marek.Z.N

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #43 on: 01 Nov 19, 08:21 am »
Thanks Rhys. The drill bits I am using are the only (sharp) drill bits we have and for now they are working but I agree that I should clamp the work piece down after making sure the pilot holes are in the correct place (my fault with that one). With the hacksaw I try to guide the front when I can but to start off the cut it is much easier to carefully guide it with the side of your thumb.
And an engineers hammer sounds like it would be a good investment, do you recommend any types or companies? ;D

Chris Brown

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Re: Delage 15-S-8
« Reply #44 on: 01 Nov 19, 09:53 am »
Rhys got in before me with the clamping, I've just bought a decent cast iron drill vice (the last one was feeble), and a cross vice, neither of them expensive. I gave up on holding things by hand some years ago, after all dexterity matters to me, it's my livelyhood.

With hacksawing, as soon as you've got a groove cut then it's both hands on the saw, also cut in long strokes, using as much of the blade as possible. That's what I was taught in metalwork over 40 years ago.

Best advice I can give you is pick up a hammer before you buy, and choose one that feels good. I bought two repousse hammers off ebay, for class members to use when I taught enammeling (my hammer is sacrosanct). One is horrible to use, and the other is good enough to replace mine. One that's comfortable to use is more important than a particular brand, the days of dodgy cheap hammers are long gone thankfully.

You need two ball pein hammers, one light one about 4oz, and a heavier one 8oz, a repousse is handy for light metal forming.