OK not exactly a build dairy, but a few details of how, why, and maybes some pretty photos if I can get it to work!!!
Firstly why this particular car, well I personally like the more aerodynamic shapes of the 1930's cars, and the challenge of the more complex shapes...however this is not necessarily the sensible option if you want a quick build.
Also it's a V8 in a see of straight 6's and 8's, it looks so cool with a pair of pipes one down each side!
The first thing to decide was some dimensions, wheel base decides all lot and is listed as a maximum of 66", mine is 63". It should be noted the rules are very much spirit of, if you choose an inspiration car that had a ridiculously long wheelbase or engine compartment that's fine to go over the allowed, if however you did it just to improve say straight line stability...shame on you! IMHO the most important dimension is the waist bulkhead, build it bigger height wise than you think you can get away with, it so affects the ease with which you can get in, and get out. It's worth mentioning, when calculating dimensions, be prepared to fudge things a bit, well actually a lot, base in mind the simple plan to shrink the car hits a problem as soon as you cant shrink the driver, trust me I've been trying to shrink myself for years! So to make some room I removed the scuttle area this bought me several useful inch's and so far no one has noticed.
The other thing to base in mind when scaling is take a thing from model railways, the track can be a different scale to the train, so in CK terms the height can be one scale, the length another, capture the spirit and character is far more important than scales acreate to 1/100000 of a mm.
Method of construction, the main structure is a plywood monocoque or if that scale you a bit, a box, yup a simple box. bulkheads of which there are 4 are 12mm plywood, the sides, base, and top are 6mm ply. With some 16 x 38 PB where they join. They were joined together with screws and Evostick waterproof wood adhesive, good stuff that is.This is then wrapped in fibreglass bonded with epoxy resin. Why you might ask epoxy as it's dearer, well personally polyester resin causes me breathing problems so really wasn't an option, and the designer in me likes that's weight for weight Epoxy comes in a little bit stronger. Please also note a small number of people can have reactions to epoxy, so if your are doing this for the first time whatever type of resin you are using do it outside in fresh air and be prepared to back away in a hurry.
For the curves of the top of the front I cut what felt like hundreds of stripes of 6mm ply approx. 7/8th running down to 5/8th...it would have been nice to have had access to a band saw for this and with hindsight probably using flexi ply, or Rhys's method of bending ply would have been significantly quicker.
The rather complex shape of the nose was created by first making some thin plywood formers, IIRC about a dozen, these were hot glue gunned to the front bulkhead, and the space between stuffed with polystyrene, which was then attached with first a rasp and the sand papered. Please not when working with polystyrene if you have several layers do not glue them together as the glue lines sand at a different rate to the polystyrene itself and will not end up smooth. One other thing Epoxy is safe with polystyrene, polyester attacks it.
So if you've got this far you have a lightweight box, that you need to attached things to, so two lengths of 3 x 1 steel were ordered and bolted to the box, where possible use threaded rod so you can go across the whole of the CK, that way any shock loads on one side are shared with the other reducing their effect. Front suspension attached, engine mount at the back, paint and you have your self a working CK.
Pictures to follow...