Author Topic: old number one  (Read 970 times)

jim

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Re: old number one
« Reply #15 on: 03 May 22, 06:07 am »
Thanks Graham, I am rather pleased with the look of my helmet. If anyone would like a drawing of it, I could lay it out on a piece of paper and draw round it so you'd get the correct scale and shape.
If you can drive round corners, you're not going fast enough.

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #16 on: 03 May 22, 09:22 am »
 




I'm sorry to say it but I think you need to re-think your steering design.


Adrian, I appreciate your comments and advice. I'm not sure how to do it yet but I foresee a lot of "what about doing" and "if that goes there will it work ?"

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #17 on: 03 May 22, 09:26 am »

The body is next. I don't foresee any problems with it except for the bullnose. Anybody got any ideas how to achieve that shape?

Jim Tanner made a smashing job with the Dodge by using his old helmet !

Interesting. What sort of helmet was it?

Konrad

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Re: old number one
« Reply #18 on: 03 May 22, 09:43 am »
Might be a silly (young'un) question, but what does a bullnose look like? Do you have any pics of the inspiration car please?

Loving the work so far, you've done very well in such a short time, I bet you must be pleased. Love the ladder for the ladder frame. It looks like ally... is it worth putting in thin plastic/rubber between the ally and the steel brackets, to stop it corroding together? Not sure how long that takes to happen when you have steel pressed up against ally.

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #19 on: 03 May 22, 10:59 am »
Might be a silly (young'un) question, but what does a bullnose look like? Do you have any pics of the inspiration car please?

Loving the work so far, you've done very well in such a short time, I bet you must be pleased. Love the ladder for the ladder frame. It looks like ally... is it worth putting in thin plastic/rubber between the ally and the steel brackets, to stop it corroding together? Not sure how long that takes to happen when you have steel pressed up against ally.

The inspiration car is "old number one" which was built in 1925 and was the first MG (badged as a Morris) made specifically for competition. I chose it because I'm a Morris. There is a good video of it on Youtube. The chassis is made from an aluminium ladder and I did consider corrosion from dissimilar metals but as I understand it, there needs to be an electrolyte between the two metals to conduct a charge. Water seems to be the only contender for that and as I don't intend to drive it in the rain, then in theory nothing should happen.   

Adrian

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Re: old number one
« Reply #20 on: 03 May 22, 05:26 pm »
I have attached a little document which illustrates the reason for my concern with the steering on No One and hopefully a solution for you. It's just to offer help to a new and obviously very enthusiast new member.
:>)
🚗

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #21 on: 03 May 22, 07:26 pm »
I have attached a little document which illustrates the reason for my concern with the steering on No One and hopefully a solution for you. It's just to offer help to a new and obviously very enthusiast new member.
:>)
First of all let me thank you for taking the time to put together the document. I can see your point about the length and consequent fragility of the long bolt. The bolts are bent because I bent them to prevent them hitting the chassis when turning due to the KPI The idea of bending the arm to put the track rod below the chassis is good in theory, but as you can see from the photo's, it would mean some serious alteration which I would rather not do. If the king pin inclination was zero then I think it would be possible to swap the brackets round to the opposite side and so put the arm at the bottom which would help. However, that isn't the case. Going below the chassis is the best bet, but I still need to add an extension on to the arm to lower the connecting point. I can also alter the steering column fairly easily. At least I can't get bored.   

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #22 on: 05 May 22, 03:46 pm »
Having been advised by Adrian to redesign my steering, I have done just that. Instead of the track rods going over the chassis, they now go under. I welded a short length of 1" box to the underside of the steering arm to lower the connection point for the track rod ends. The long bolt that was connecting steering arm and track rod end has gone. I also lengthened the steering column so that the Ackerman was below the chassis. After a great deal of thinking about it, it's been a fairly straight forward job.

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #23 on: 16 May 22, 07:17 pm »
I've been struggling with how to make the curved bits of the bodywork and have tried using cedar strips, steaming ply and have considered aluminium but I have no experience bending and shaping it. However I have tried something that some people will consider unusual for want of a better word. I happened to see a video on Youtube about shaping and forming EVA foam to make props for film and role playing. I have some floor mats which are EVA, so I thought....why not give it a go.
The attached photo's show my first attempt and I have to admit that it has worked. As you can tell the piece is not quite big enough but good enough for a try. I fastened the piece to the frame with clamps and warmed it up with a heat gun. so it might shape itself to the frame. Then I gave it three coats of PVA and one coat of paint. I left it for a few hours and then removed the clamps hoping it would maintain it's shape which it did. The next step is to get some bigger bits of EVA and add some resin which I didn't have. It  makes the foam rigid.  The video to watch is by James Bruton. There are also videos on shaping the foam. I think I have found how to make the bullnose radiator.

TheGiantTribble

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Re: old number one
« Reply #24 on: 17 May 22, 09:59 am »
Well that works rather well.
Excellent idea, I wonder how tight a radius it would form?

Konrad

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Re: old number one
« Reply #25 on: 17 May 22, 10:10 am »
That EVA foam looks like a great idea. I was toying with using ply strips for the structure, and lycra to bridge the gaps, to support fiberglass as it sets (a bit like the wheel arch extensions from Project Binky). I was worried it would turn out very ridge-y, and end up looking like an old-school canvas canoe. Thin sheets of EVA looks like a much more forgiving option.
Well that works rather well.
Excellent idea, I wonder how tight a radius it would form?
You can get the foam in all sorts of shapes and sizes... rounded edge, triangle, tubes, balls... so looks like you can epoxy it into pretty much any radius you like, depending on how thick a sheet you get.
I've had a quick look around and it seems some people have problems with the epoxy not setting when applied as just a thin layer over the foam, but it looks like they may have spread the epoxy too thinly (without any glass in), and the foam doesnt appear to absorb the epoxy, so there's just not enough depth to cure properly. I'm not sure if this means it's going to be a better option to cover the foam in packing tape (so the epoxy doesnt stick at all) and just use it kinda like a buck, which will peel off from the inside, giving you a nice rigid 'glass shape that can be bonded in place and reinforced on the inside... or do it without the tape and leave the foam in place to act as a vibration dampener too. I think maybe it depends if it soaks up water or not... wouldn't want to create a wicking layer which never dries out.

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #26 on: 17 May 22, 10:51 am »
The process that I have watched on Youtube and that which I have used is to heat with a heat gun to get the shape required, or fix the foam in place and then heat it so it fits perfectly. Seal the foam with three coats of PVA, then apply resin and finally paint.

It is possible to get a tight radius. The radiator on mine is 6 inches but there would be no problem going down to 2 or three inches.

Konrad

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Re: old number one
« Reply #27 on: 17 May 22, 11:15 am »
Seal the foam with three coats of PVA, then apply resin and finally paint.
I thought PVA was used as a release agent/layer when working with resin, because the resin doesnt stick to it. Would be ok to do when making props or costumes, but not sure how well that would stand up to the vibrations we'd be putting through it?

guest274

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Re: old number one
« Reply #28 on: 17 May 22, 12:52 pm »
PVA is a glue and sealer. Wood glue is PVA. Watch the Youtube video by James Bruton to see what he does. I have only just started working with foam and PVA, but I don't see resin falling off a piece of foam sealed with PVA. If it did the props people wouldn't use it.

Konrad

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Re: old number one
« Reply #29 on: 17 May 22, 03:02 pm »
Ah, my bad, I'm getting my acronyms mixed up:
Quote
PVA (white glue) is polyvinyl acetate. PVA mold release is polyvinyl alcohol. They are not the same thing.