Author Topic: MG M type  (Read 4229 times)

StefanN

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #45 on: 07 Apr 23, 08:58 pm »
What length stub axles did you get from Gemini?  Also, what width bearings have you fitted?  You should be fine putting a spacer washer between the stub axle shoulder and the inner bearing, just make sure it's only on pressing on the inner race.  Post a photo if you can.

NewbieNick

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #46 on: 08 Apr 23, 05:22 am »
Hi Stefan now you have asked i realise i should have bought the shorter stub axles. The bearings are 10 mm. Picture attached of stub axle wheel assembly, you can see the amount of end float i would have. Stefan i wondered if i could put another bearing inboard next to existing, this would fit in the bore where the oil seal used to be & be held captive.What do you think?
Cheers Nick

Jimr1999

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #47 on: 08 Apr 23, 07:26 am »
I had the opposite problem with my wheels, one came with sprung bearing seals and a shorter crush tube and distance between bearing seats, the other came with sealed bearings and the bearing seats, crush tubes further apart/longer.
I made spacers to fit inside the bearing seats of the one with the separate oil seals and replaced all bearings with sealed ones. This gave the distance apart the bearings are the same dimension. Also it should be the stronger of the two options. I have the longer stub axles on mine, mount the brake mounts innermost, had to do a spot of grinding for fit to the stub carrier and the stubs are spacer free and about 8mm into the outer 10mm bearing.
... You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead.

NewbieNick

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #48 on: 08 Apr 23, 03:58 pm »
Thought i would have a go at a homemade steering rack.This is where i'm at. Thanks o Jim/Stefan wheel problems

Jimr1999

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #49 on: 15 Apr 23, 06:25 am »
Check out Stefan's guide to brakes in the tech forum Nick... https://cyclekartsgb.createaforum.com/tech-forum/guide-to-brakes/
Jim
... You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead.

StefanN

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #50 on: 15 Apr 23, 11:02 am »
The Guide to Brakes will give you a good starting point Nick.  I've not worked through the calculations for a mechanical brake in the guide, but the same principles apply.   You're balancing force multiplication (the pedal ratio and the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinder to the caliper in hydraulic systems, or the leverage in mechanical brakes) with the distance your foot has to move.

Importantly, make sure it's hefty enough and gets some cooling - whilst we're not in the territory of glowing red ceramic discs, they can get a fair amount of heat input and people  have had brake fade and other heat related failures.  Mountain bike brake calipers are NOT suitable.  Its most important that the brakes act consistently - you can adjust your driving to their stopping power.

Others have used (possibly still use) mechanical brakes successfully, so hopefully they share their experiences.


NewbieNick

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #51 on: 20 Apr 23, 05:01 pm »
Faking it, pit bike wheels resprayed, fake drum brakes, fake hub caps. Not as good as Moogies 3 d printer but not bad from 18 mm ply.
Hope you all like them

Cheers Nick

Moogie38 (Noel)

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #52 on: 20 Apr 23, 05:19 pm »
Looking well, very nice. 👍
Facebook: Cyclekarts Ireland.

Ian Fletcher

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #53 on: 20 Apr 23, 05:49 pm »
They look great 🤗
Regarding brakes, I have mechanical ones and once properly set up they worked very well at Whilton last year. I bought a secondhand kart as a source for most of my parts. This had a mechanical brake so that's why I used one. If buying new I would probably have gone for hydraulic. Most kart mechanical brakes have a second brake cable in case the primary one snaps!

NewbieNick

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #54 on: 21 Apr 23, 07:21 pm »
Thanks for brake info Ian F. I will probably go for hydraulic

RhysN

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #55 on: 22 Apr 23, 07:51 am »
I suggest these,https://www.okeparts.com/collections/diy-home-build/products/oke-mechanical-go-kart-brake-caliper-pads-for-karts-other-vehicles?_pos=1&_sid=24e1fa6a1&_ss=r plenty of pad area, both sides moving, and robust. There are no issues over bleeding. In conjunction with the following disc which has huge heat dissipating ability, equally you could use one of the thinner ones from the same supplier.
https://www.okeparts.com/collections/diy-home-build/products/oke-mechanical-go-kart-brake-caliper-pads-for-karts-other-vehicles?_pos=1&_sid=24e1fa6a1&_ss=r
We must avoid torturing our brains with false problems, it occupies but it can annoy. In jest!

NewbieNick

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #56 on: 23 Apr 23, 07:48 am »
Thanks Rhys. Chain & sprocket steering rack abandoned in favour of something that weighs less than me.
Can anyone tell me the diameter of a 70 tooth sprocket?  Photos of new steering. 

jim

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #57 on: 23 Apr 23, 08:18 am »
Hi Nick, The diameter of a 70 tooth sprocket will depend on the pitch your using.
If you can drive round corners, you're not going fast enough.

Jimr1999

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #58 on: 23 Apr 23, 08:41 am »
If you are on 420 chain, 289mm Nick
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Ian L

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Re: MG M type
« Reply #59 on: 23 Apr 23, 09:12 am »
Nick. Looks like you are making great progress. For the sprocket (pitch x teeth) / 3.142 will give you the sprocket dia. I would be interested in a link to the sprocket and chain you have found - I’m struggling to find a matching set in either 420 or 219 type chains. Also re front axle spacers are fine the pit bike axle from Gemini has a shoulder for the narrower hub - that’s what I have! Keep up the good work.