Author Topic: Filament 3D Printing  (Read 313 times)

Richard Holland

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Filament 3D Printing
« on: 26 Nov 24, 02:49 pm »
I just wanted to throw this out there, as I am quite new to printing, however I have already noticed a few things. 
Some I am looking for input into, others are things I have noted that may help others.

The filament finish at 0.2mm layers, is not bad at all. I did wonder if there was an easy way to smooth it a little bit more?
I am talking re functional CK bits, not small models.
Obviuosly sand and fill and paint is one way. I was more thinking just to tidy edges and knock the worst of the high points off.
I had heard that Ethyl Acetate (In some nail polish removers) was apossibility.

I have also noticed that on the free model sites, several of the parts are very slabby, with sharp corners and edges.
One of these I printed. The sharp corners making stress raisers, so it ****. Is there a good glue and putty for PLA repairs?

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RhysN

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #1 on: 26 Nov 24, 03:48 pm »
I too am new to 3D, but my son who has used the printer I now have, a Prusa, tells me that putting filament parts in a box with a saucer of acetone will "ploish" the filament I have. It is apparently dependant on the variety of filament you are using.
The Prusa handbook suggests some sort of superglue (CA) for joining parts. The slicer I am using comes up with warnings about corners and such, there's a tick box to hit which blends and softens them too, maybe only that slicer?
Remember I am totally new to this, less than a week so I am possibly talking rubbish again.
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Moogie38 (Noel)

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #2 on: 26 Nov 24, 06:12 pm »
If the part is designed properly it shouldn't have any sharp corners,  it should have fillets to add strength.
Any detailed curved parts i would print at 0.1 layer height , minimises the amount of sanding but will increase the print time considerably .
You can use some of the UV curing resin for the SLA printers to coat the outside of your part to form a hard coating which is easier to sand.
Still hait sanding 3D parts no matter what way I do it.
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RhysN

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #3 on: 27 Nov 24, 12:30 pm »
As I was having issues printing a piece my son had designed I went back to instructions. I am using PETG filament, previous jobs have gone well.
I have just tired again, upped the nozzle temp to 240 and cleaned the bed properly, no issues.
It seems that not being diligent on cleaning the bed was the issue, so therefore, Mea Culpa!
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Jay Pratt

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #4 on: 15 Jan 25, 04:46 pm »
I've been 3d printing a while, ive made lots of models and rc stuff aswell as functional things, the best method I've found to smooth things out, is resin, UV or the air dry stuff, mixed with talcum powder to make a paste, then brush it on, when sanded it leaves an amazing finish.

Tim Wheater

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #5 on: 06 Feb 25, 12:05 pm »
Acetone smoothing only works on ABS, with PLA or PETG you are using filler of some sort and wet n dry. When you have adhesion issues with the bed use cheap hair spray.

RhysN

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #6 on: 07 Feb 25, 07:38 am »
Thanks Tim, we have now resolved issues. It seems in the move from my son's house to here that settings became disturbed, equally a new reel may have helped.
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StefanN

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #7 on: 07 Feb 25, 08:03 am »
I generally use PLA or occasionally PETG.

I find the brand of filament makes quite a difference to the results.  My favourite at the moment is Creality Hyper Series which I buy when they have one of their frequent sales.

For smoothing, I typically knock back any lumps with 80 grit and soften  edges etc with 240.  I paint with a primer and then sand the whole thing “across the grain” focusing on any bits that I care about how they look.  Then paint and flatten with 400 grit until I’ve got the surface I want.  A layer of colour, flatten, final coat of colour.

Orientation of the part when printing makes a difference but you’ll have to experiment with that.  Similarly, tweaking the gap between any support material and the part can make for a much cleaner removal of supports.  Part design, orientation and even printing a component in multiple sections that you then glue together are all useful techniques.

Scraping with a wood scraper can work on some surfaces.

I’m about to experiment with Methyl Acetate on PLA as a chemical smoother.  This can also strengthen the part by bonding the surface better, but without losing too much detail….or so I’m told.

Hope that helps.

RhysN

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Re: Filament 3D Printing
« Reply #8 on: 07 Feb 25, 01:31 pm »
PETG seems to be the material son Sean prefers for the things we do. It's certainly been adequate, most of what he has done over the last years has given a more than adequate finish off the plate. Seems that the thickness setting is partially responsible. Then again he used to be on the drawing tools all day, now has a somewhat different role, but still likes to hobby print. I was given the task as he moves to Canada shortly.
Now I am tasked with learning to turn my thoughts into drawings for the slicer! CAD has moved from my previous version (cardboard etc)
We must avoid torturing our brains with false problems, it occupies but it can annoy. In jest!