Post by: NewbieNick on 18 Feb 23, 04:37 pm
Steering wheel made from 6mm Plywood dragged out of skip. Dashboard made from steering wheel off cuts, hope it fits.
Thanks for positive comments on previous post. Please see photos.
Regards NewbieNick
Post by: Jimr1999 on 18 Feb 23, 05:52 pm
Post by: Chris L on 18 Feb 23, 09:54 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 19 Feb 23, 10:23 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 19 Feb 23, 03:18 pm
Post by: Chris L on 19 Feb 23, 04:32 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 19 Feb 23, 04:35 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 19 Feb 23, 05:00 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 25 Feb 23, 06:01 pm
If the rest of this Kart takes a similar amount of time, i will down gear it & use it as a mobility scooter.
Post by: Jimr1999 on 25 Feb 23, 07:35 pm
Post by: Chris L on 26 Feb 23, 08:13 am
Post by: synthpunk on 26 Feb 23, 10:02 am
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 26 Feb 23, 10:12 am
Steering wheel looks killer by the way.
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 26 Feb 23, 02:17 pm
Noel.
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 27 Feb 23, 05:08 pm
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 12 Mar 23, 09:27 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 13 Mar 23, 06:47 am
Post by: Chris L on 13 Mar 23, 12:28 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 18 Mar 23, 04:44 pm
Compressor cover. & 1 picture of everything.
Post by: NewbieNick on 24 Mar 23, 03:40 pm
Also Chassis Mock up. This is my 1st Build & i am not an Engineer or in any related Trades so keeping it simple.
Also may be of interest ordered Chassis steel from Metalmania .co.uk on Wednesday this week, arrived today.
Any Builder what thickness Engine mounting plate?
PS Got my garage back
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 24 Mar 23, 05:41 pm
Post by: Chris L on 24 Mar 23, 06:58 pm
Post by: Ian L on 27 Mar 23, 12:56 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 28 Mar 23, 06:32 am
No i haven't done full size drawings but have made a 1/12 Scale model of Kart.
Thanks again Nick
Post by: Ian L on 28 Mar 23, 09:05 am
Welding Helmet Glass Magnifier, Diopter Cheater Lens 3.0, Welding Glass Magnifier Lens Eye-Protecting/Welder Accessories, Anti-Ultraviolet, Automatic Darkening Filter 3.0 Diopter, 5 x 4cm/ 2 x 1.6in https://amzn.eu/d/2Up7s1G
Which give 3x or so magnification- as I say works for me.
I will look out for some pics.
Ian
Post by: NewbieNick on 28 Mar 23, 05:43 pm
Rear shackles are work in progress.
Post by: NewbieNick on 30 Mar 23, 03:45 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 31 Mar 23, 05:57 am
Is it okay to use this engine? 212cc 7HP, also recommended sprocket size for rear axle.
an help or comments would be appreciated
Cheers Nick
Post by: Jimr1999 on 31 Mar 23, 06:15 am
The innards of it are all metal and the valves are held on by the superior collet system. https://www.gxtuningstoreuk.com/inc/sdetail/126/159 as stock.
The rule is you don't tune them over 10HP
Hope this helps Nick
Jim
Post by: Glynn on 31 Mar 23, 12:34 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 01 Apr 23, 07:25 am
Hi Guys does anyone have any experience with Hyundai engines sold by Gemini karts?... As for the ratios, well it all depends. I did quite a bit of reading about this and still am not sure if I got it right. I will assume firstly that you are running a TAV30 style torque convertor. I will also assume that your rear wheels are 17" pit bike or Honda style wheels as they should be.
Is it okay to use this engine? 212cc 7HP, also recommended sprocket size for rear axle.
an help or comments would be appreciated
Cheers Nick
If you search this forum, Rhys put up a post where he looked at the ratios the faster guys were running in the states whilst he was over there. IIRC the consensus was that TAV to rear sprocket was a 7:1 ratio (e.g. 10 teeth at the TAV30, 70 teeth on the axle, 420 chain) Some run 60 teeth, some use a jack shaft and take the ratio even higher.
If your gearing is too tall and you run a heavy cyclekart/driver, you may find yourself "bogging down" when exiting corners where the revs are not high enough to supply a reasonable amount of torque to the rear wheels to accelerate you as you might wish. If your ratio is too far the other way you may run out of revs before you reach an ideal top speed - the chances of the latter happening are perhaps smaller than the former on most of the courses we run.
Adding to the complications of gearing is how the variable drive TAV30 performs. You can change springs, weights and spring positions in them to have engagement not until higher revs and/or drive not maxing out as soon. I would start with stock TAV30 and work that out when you know how your machine performs. Last time I looked, Gemini were out of stock of 70T 420 platewheels.
I hope this helps, but I fear that it is just adding to the confusion. I am sure people with more experience than me will chime in, I might learn something so thanks for bringing this subject up.
Jim
Post by: StefanN on 01 Apr 23, 09:17 am
7:1 should give you a nice drivable cyclekart, which will make you grin, which is what it’s about after all!
Post by: NewbieNick on 01 Apr 23, 10:25 am
Cheers Nick.
Post by: Ian L on 01 Apr 23, 02:24 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 01 Apr 23, 05:55 pm
I understand the bearings in these can be changed to 17X35 can anyone confirm.
Is anyone using the cloned Torque converter being sold by Gemini any comments.
Cheers Nick
Post by: Jimr1999 on 01 Apr 23, 06:27 pm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123871469862?var=424603379536
The tube with care can be cut to length with a plumbers pipe cutter
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113999848637?var=414284778560
Jim
Post by: Ian L on 01 Apr 23, 06:44 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 01 Apr 23, 07:02 pm
Thanks again
Post by: NewbieNick on 02 Apr 23, 07:30 am
Post by: Jimr1999 on 02 Apr 23, 07:35 am
Post by: Graham Hill on 02 Apr 23, 12:43 pm
Thanks Ian,change of plan just ordered 4 17 inch Pitbike wheels.
I understand the bearings in these can be changed to 17X35 can anyone confirm.
Is anyone using the cloned Torque converter being sold by Gemini any comments.
Cheers Nick
Hi Nick. I have a genuine Comet, but I would have no reservation in fitting the clone supplied by Gemini. From discussion I know that they spent some time in sourcing one that they were happy to sell themselves. Being the sole distributors of the genuine Comet they do understand the weaknesses of copies. I have handled the clone for inspection and it appears well machined. Graham
Post by: NewbieNick on 02 Apr 23, 04:26 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 07 Apr 23, 11:15 am
Also 4 Pit bike wheels £ 108.00 from Red circles. Question, i have changed the wheel bearings & offered wheel to front axle without oil seals in place, do you fit oil seals back in & have them rubbing against stub axle shoulder & retaining nut or leave them out & fit a spacer/shim?
Cheers Nick
Post by: StefanN on 07 Apr 23, 12:49 pm
I’m sure you’ll have done this, but I do make new compression spacers to go between the bearings.
Post by: NewbieNick on 07 Apr 23, 02:53 pm
Thanks again any advice would be great.
Regards Nick
Post by: StefanN on 07 Apr 23, 08:58 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 08 Apr 23, 05:22 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: Jimr1999 on 08 Apr 23, 07:26 am
I made spacers to fit inside the bearing seats of the one with the separate oil seals and replaced all bearings with sealed ones. This gave the distance apart the bearings are the same dimension. Also it should be the stronger of the two options. I have the longer stub axles on mine, mount the brake mounts innermost, had to do a spot of grinding for fit to the stub carrier and the stubs are spacer free and about 8mm into the outer 10mm bearing.
Post by: NewbieNick on 08 Apr 23, 03:58 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 15 Apr 23, 06:25 am
Jim
Post by: StefanN on 15 Apr 23, 11:02 am
Importantly, make sure it's hefty enough and gets some cooling - whilst we're not in the territory of glowing red ceramic discs, they can get a fair amount of heat input and people have had brake fade and other heat related failures. Mountain bike brake calipers are NOT suitable. Its most important that the brakes act consistently - you can adjust your driving to their stopping power.
Others have used (possibly still use) mechanical brakes successfully, so hopefully they share their experiences.
Post by: NewbieNick on 20 Apr 23, 05:01 pm
Hope you all like them
Cheers Nick
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 20 Apr 23, 05:19 pm
Post by: Ian Fletcher on 20 Apr 23, 05:49 pm
Regarding brakes, I have mechanical ones and once properly set up they worked very well at Whilton last year. I bought a secondhand kart as a source for most of my parts. This had a mechanical brake so that's why I used one. If buying new I would probably have gone for hydraulic. Most kart mechanical brakes have a second brake cable in case the primary one snaps!
Post by: NewbieNick on 21 Apr 23, 07:21 pm
Post by: RhysN on 22 Apr 23, 07:51 am
https://www.okeparts.com/collections/diy-home-build/products/oke-mechanical-go-kart-brake-caliper-pads-for-karts-other-vehicles?_pos=1&_sid=24e1fa6a1&_ss=r
Post by: NewbieNick on 23 Apr 23, 07:48 am
Can anyone tell me the diameter of a 70 tooth sprocket? Photos of new steering.
Post by: jim on 23 Apr 23, 08:18 am
Post by: Jimr1999 on 23 Apr 23, 08:41 am
Post by: Ian L on 23 Apr 23, 09:12 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 23 Apr 23, 09:54 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: Ian L on 23 Apr 23, 10:15 am
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 23 Apr 23, 11:12 am
#420 chain has the same pitch as #40. The pitch of #219 chain is very close to #35.
Post by: NewbieNick on 03 May 23, 03:42 pm
This gives me nearly 7-1 as advised & also a smaller drive sprocket meaning more ground clearence/engine space.
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 05 May 23, 04:59 pm
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 05 May 23, 05:40 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 08 May 23, 04:19 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: Ian L on 08 May 23, 07:20 pm
Looks like some good progress.
I would say any additional support is worth while - where I can I have welded in crush tubes in my design.
I see you have the drive sprocket on the right - drive sprockets are normally on the left due to the direction of drive from the engine, brake disc on the right.
Ian
Post by: RhysN on 08 May 23, 07:39 pm
There is a topic in the Tech Forum, Re. Sprocket Sizes. that should give you the information you need.All imperial chains (even most on Japanese motorcycles) the first digit (distance from pin to pin) is in eighths of an inch, so 219 is 2/8 (/4"), 35 is 3/8 and all the 4 series are 4/8 (1/2")
#420 chain has the same pitch as #40. The pitch of #219 chain is very close to #35.
Post by: Ian L on 08 May 23, 08:39 pm
Ian
Post by: NewbieNick on 09 May 23, 05:57 am
Regards Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 09 May 23, 05:59 am
Post by: RhysN on 09 May 23, 07:30 am
Thanks Ian , I am missing something here what’s the relevance of disc location to engine rotation? It’s easy enough to change them round but put disc same side as calliper. Anyone else have any views.If you have the space it doesn't matter what side the brake is on. Some folks build them so narrow the only place for the brake is the right hand side, and always the sprocket to the left.
Regards Nick
Post by: Ian L on 09 May 23, 08:44 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 09 May 23, 03:28 pm
Thanks again Nick
Post by: Ian L on 10 May 23, 10:02 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 11 May 23, 05:11 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 16 May 23, 07:00 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 20 May 23, 05:17 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 23 May 23, 04:26 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 23 May 23, 06:21 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 01 Jun 23, 06:40 am
Post by: RhysN on 01 Jun 23, 07:18 am
Question, locking collar grub screws do these tighten onto shaft or onto key?I have found the versions like that allow movement and chain coming off. I would suggest split collars, they clamp all round the shaft rather than just relying on the point of the grub screw. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/shaft-collars/2346964, they are more expensive, but they work.
Other option, used by many Fraser Nash owners is pieces of tube cut to length between adjacent parts.
Post by: Ian L on 01 Jun 23, 09:43 am
I tighten on to the shaft, the screw can / will mark the shaft but can be dressed back with some emery paper if needed.
As Rhys suggests these need to be snug as they take out the shaft lateral loads, I have one against each of the shaft bearings.
If you need to retain keys then a cable tie pulled tight should do it!
Hope all goes ok.
Ian
Post by: NewbieNick on 02 Jun 23, 05:18 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 02 Jun 23, 05:36 am
Post by: Jimr1999 on 02 Jun 23, 07:18 am
Post by: Ian L on 02 Jun 23, 08:41 am
Will be interested to see your progress, packaging the engine took a while for me, and im still working on the brakes, recycling Kart parts, on reflecting new may have been quicker!
As Jim say go for Dot5 fluid, try to keep if off any paint so pour carefully!
Have a fun weekend
Ian
Post by: NewbieNick on 03 Jun 23, 05:19 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 11 Jun 23, 12:09 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: Chris Brown on 11 Jun 23, 01:37 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 25 Jun 23, 06:22 am
Thanks to everyone answering previous questions.
Regards Nick
Post by: Ian L on 25 Jun 23, 07:37 am
Post by: Applejack on 25 Jun 23, 04:40 pm
Post by: synthpunk on 25 Jun 23, 09:48 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 04 Jul 23, 06:23 am
slapper. Done some research on this site & others & think i may have Gemini axle round the wrong way, is this possible? King pin angle is facing slightly forward. Any suggestions/answers would be welcome. Please remember i am not an engineer so keep it as simple as possible thanks.
Will be going to Westzoyland with or without Kart.
Post by: Applejack on 04 Jul 23, 07:34 am
Post by: Ian L on 04 Jul 23, 07:49 am
Im also running the Gemini axle - so hope I have it in the right way round!!
Have you read Adrians build guide - its on the forum and has a lot on steering geometry.
I have attached the pic on castor - the Gemini axle has this built in but will need setting to the angle.
Check everything is tight and good luck.
Im a little behind you in my build but as soon as things are moving I will report back.
If you are still having problems, bring the kart to WZL as I'm sure there will be people who can help.
Best regards
Ian
Post by: Jimr1999 on 04 Jul 23, 08:20 am
Hope this helps
Jim
Post by: Jimr1999 on 04 Jul 23, 08:36 am
Jim
Post by: Ian L on 04 Jul 23, 08:44 am
I have my axle over the springs and have a carrier to support the axle, yours may be rotating in the u bolts?
Attached a couple of pics of my set up - I also have ‘horns’ but not as tall as your - due to the axle location.
Looks like yours may be a bit flat and needs some castor.
When I have the steering back together I can send another pic.
For info my pitman arm is 80mm Ctr to Ctr.
Ian
Post by: StefanN on 04 Jul 23, 02:27 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 04 Jul 23, 04:13 pm
Stefan i now have imaginary line in front of tyre contact point instead of behind. achieved this by rotating axle clockwise.
Will bring kart to Westernzoyland even if not steering so more experienced people can advise.
Thanks again Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 05 Jul 23, 05:22 pm
Gone from abject misery to near ecstasy. One of the few advantages of 4 sisters is at least one of them can sew, see pictures
Post by: Graham Hill on 06 Jul 23, 07:50 am
Post by: Ian L on 06 Jul 23, 09:07 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 06 Jul 23, 05:57 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 17 Jul 23, 05:04 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: Ian L on 18 Jul 23, 10:37 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 19 Jul 23, 05:03 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 21 Jul 23, 03:22 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 22 Jul 23, 06:15 am
Do not understand its necessity.
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 23 Jul 23, 12:15 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: StefanN on 24 Jul 23, 05:21 pm
Question, why do I need to fit a battery master cut off switch? I have a dash mounted engine kill installed, Happy to comply with rules & guidelines but battery switch will not kill engine.It reduces risks of dealing with electrical faults or fuel spills/leaks.
Do not understand its necessity.
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 25 Jul 23, 05:40 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 30 Jul 23, 06:58 am
Post by: Jimr1999 on 30 Jul 23, 07:33 am
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 30 Jul 23, 11:16 am
Post by: Ian L on 30 Jul 23, 06:57 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 05 Aug 23, 06:44 pm
CKGB Badges kindly printed by BSA Nick from Stefan's file thanks to both. Air brushed by yours truly. Exhaust is work in progress & Looking promising pictures later.
Cheers Nick
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 06 Aug 23, 12:13 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 11 Aug 23, 01:03 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 11 Aug 23, 01:27 pm
Post by: Ian L on 11 Aug 23, 08:18 pm
Post by: Glynn on 12 Aug 23, 06:18 pm
No, I don’t think they are ever really finished.
How did you make the silencer ?
Post by: NewbieNick on 13 Aug 23, 06:41 am
Thanks to everyone who answered new builders questions.
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 21 Aug 23, 05:24 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 27 Aug 23, 12:24 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: Mark Underdown on 27 Aug 23, 08:33 pm
Post by: RhysN on 30 Aug 23, 08:42 am
Post by: RhysN on 30 Aug 23, 07:06 pm
Hi Rhys, thanks for the warning, chain still has some slack but D I D gold racing chains appear to be made out of elastic. I put this in to save me having to keep moving the MotorThat's why I bolt my engines down solid to a motor mount and spend time getting them straight, then move the whole motor mount between guide plates/runners. All the generic motors have generous mounting holes.
backwards not easy to do & keep straight. Hyundai motors have 2 holes & 2 diagonal slots so very easy to twist when moving. Thanks again for the warning .
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 27 Sep 23, 05:15 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: Ian L on 27 Sep 23, 09:26 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 28 Sep 23, 06:28 am
Post by: Graham Hill on 29 Sep 23, 09:07 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 29 Sep 23, 01:32 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 01 Oct 23, 10:34 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 09 Oct 23, 05:29 pm
cheers Nick
Post by: uncantim on 10 Oct 23, 04:54 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 14 Oct 23, 10:26 am
photos of exhaust gas deflector attached. This has made an enormous difference to the temperature of bodywork & surrounding structure. Hope this works until I start on stage one mods.
Happy Building Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 18 Oct 23, 03:11 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: uncantim on 18 Oct 23, 05:12 pm
Post by: Jimr1999 on 19 Oct 23, 07:41 am
JimR
Post by: NewbieNick on 22 Oct 23, 12:33 pm
Happy Building Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 24 Oct 23, 03:38 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 01 Nov 23, 06:59 pm
Happy Building Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 02 Nov 23, 05:11 pm
Post by: RhysN on 04 Nov 23, 08:34 pm
There's a lot of weight hanging off those 2 exhaust flange mounting bolts. I have had them tear out of the head.
Post by: NewbieNick on 05 Nov 23, 05:46 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 12 Nov 23, 03:21 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 02 Dec 23, 01:24 pm
I have also removed the governor on the advice of Applejack, also upgraded valve springs while engine was on the bench.
Happy building its not that cold.
Nick
Post by: Ian L on 02 Dec 23, 09:08 pm
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 03 Dec 23, 06:17 pm
[attachimg=1]
Post by: NewbieNick on 04 Dec 23, 06:15 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 19 Dec 23, 08:00 am
Any advice on flattening & bonding would be appreciated.
Cheers Nick
Post by: Jimr1999 on 19 Dec 23, 08:23 am
Post by: Ian L on 19 Dec 23, 09:32 am
Cheers Ian
https://www.toolstation.com/ct1-adhesive-sealant/p96154?store=DE&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcUrXzAlAbZTg8j-fbBJD0hsS&gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4WsBhCiARIsAEJIEzXeQIFOYAcDx7MP0-uh3gtyj4UzqtoRUZQf7ObDD3egP8_lQIlNFOIaAnXvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Post by: NewbieNick on 21 Dec 23, 10:37 am
Copper heat shield fitted to header pipe.
Happy Christmas Nick
Post by: Jimr1999 on 21 Dec 23, 11:02 am
JimR
Post by: NewbieNick on 21 Dec 23, 02:01 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 18 Feb 24, 08:44 am
Cheers Nick
Post by: Ian L on 18 Feb 24, 10:10 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 18 Feb 24, 12:08 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: RhysN on 19 Feb 24, 07:15 am
Post by: NewbieNick on 19 Feb 24, 02:23 pm
more info please.
Thanks Nick
Post by: RhysN on 19 Feb 24, 03:40 pm
Hi Rhys, unaware of filter in base of carb, can’t find reference to it on line,It's a small gauze one in the body of the carb where the small bowl on the bottom of the fuel tap is.
more info please.
Thanks Nick
Post by: NewbieNick on 19 Feb 24, 04:23 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 12 Mar 24, 03:17 pm
Any comments Ideas appreciated.
Cheers Nick
Post by: Ian Fletcher on 12 Mar 24, 03:51 pm
The computer fans dont shift much air, but you can pick up a Chinese cooling fan for a quad bike cheap off ebay. From memory 5" diameter, so quite compact.
Post by: Moogie38 (Noel) on 12 Mar 24, 04:52 pm
https://youtu.be/Ytv9OZNkLOs?si=gMhYWdAsuYbOf-ET
Post by: NewbieNick on 12 Mar 24, 05:27 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: Glynn on 12 Mar 24, 05:38 pm
Post by: NewbieNick on 12 Mar 24, 05:52 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: RhysN on 13 Mar 24, 05:07 pm
One thing we did have to do with the Mercedes which used a stock tank was cool the fuel, it was boiling in the tank. That's why I use a remote tank ever since.
Post by: NewbieNick on 13 Mar 24, 06:50 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: StefanN on 14 Mar 24, 07:20 am
Help,advice please. Despite my best efforts my engine bay is still getting too hot, I am thinking of a fake filler cap to act as a chimney, possibly vented to stay in place or removable when racing, I had also thought of fitting a 12V computer fan on the underside to shift air out. The idea would be to switch fan on when static & off when moving.My Bugatti uses a computer fan under a fake fuel filler hole. It’s assisting the natural rise of the hot air. I got the idea from Geoff May who used them on his real Austin 7 I think.
Any comments Ideas appreciated.
Cheers Nick
The various metal plates around these engines are important to keep the blown air passing through the fins. They look naff and often get removed.
Post by: NewbieNick on 14 Mar 24, 05:10 pm
Cheers Nick
Post by: RhysN on 15 Mar 24, 01:07 pm
Hi Rhys, thanks for your reply. Rhys I have ducting taking outside air to engine fan, also have outside air ducted to carburettor. I had not thought about fuel tank is it worth insulating with foil?hi Nick, getting the air out is almost more important than in. Personally I would move the tank elsewhere, and as Stefan says in it's place put a plate to keep air over the fins.
Cheers Nick