CycleKarts GB
Forums => Build journals => Topic started by: jim on 21 Nov 19, 06:57 am
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So I thought I would build a cyclekart. Something simple that wouldn't take too long. The inspiration was a 1935 Dodge baquet.
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This is my original sketch of what it might look like.
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Nice choice, something a bit different again for the ranks.
And from your sketch it would appear to scale very well for a CK.
I approve :-)
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That's a nice looking car. I would suggest spending a bit of time on figuring how you get you, and the drive package in there though.
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I had some 2mm sheet cut to my graph paper drawing which was just measured off the sketch. A few strips of 30mm x 2mm for the top and bottom of the chassis. I used some old shelving brackets to jig it.
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Keep it simple went out of the window, there's gonna be miles of welding ahead. Tacked up with front cross member and a rear which will be the seat support.
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Front leaf springs fitted. 1 1/2" × 3/16 × 20" They feel like the correct poundage.
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Front axle halfway through and rear leaf springs fitted.
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Love it....rear springs too?!
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Thanks for the nice comments everyone. I have no idea if the rear leaf springs will work properly or just keep chucking the chain off. I had a look at a few chain driven cars with leaf springs at the nec classic car show a couple of weeks ago so it can be done. The diff is done and now almost have a rolling chassis. Why didn't I just keep it simple.
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Impressive progress indeed.
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very nice work Jim, looking forward to your next report!
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Hi Jim. I've not commented previously but thanks for taking the time to post regularly and share your skills and ideas. I love what you are doing, keep them coming please.
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Wow! that is amazing
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Thanks again for the nice comments. Hub adapters done and mocking up the rear brakes.
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That's an exotic build Jim. Makes my KISS cars look pretty primitive.
Can I suggest you have a look at your ratio on the sprockets. I suspect that you may be geared a bit high, with a simple drive (no TAV) most folks are finding they need to be about 9:1 from the engine sprocket to the axle.
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Thanks Rhys, I think my ratio is 7.2:1. I am making a a plate that will bolt to the engine and support two sprockets. Similar in design to tav but with reducing gears. It is what I have kicking around the garage. I am on a very low budget with this build and it has to be under a grand. So far £400.
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I like low budget! From memory Chris used about that on his ERA, subsequently changed. I'm sure he will chip in. You have spent more than I have so far :)
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I have a selection of 4 sprockets which can give me final drive ratios ranging from 9.6:1 to 7.6:1. At Stretton in November I was running 8.8:1 which was probably slightly undergeared as the governor was cutting in quite early on the straights but the hairpin slows you down so much that without a TAV the engine really labours as you accelerate out. My first time out at Stretton the hairpin wasn't in our circuit and I was running 7.6:1 and it pulled it fine.
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A few more bits done. Steering wheel made from an old bit of ali sheet with some ply wood glued on. Brake pedal and master cylinder which is an old toyota supra clutch one. Fitted some brake discs and calipers from a scrap Chinese 125 bike. Made a plate to mount the reducing sprockets. I think that's about it.
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Well, I don't think my maths are up to much. I had 3 to 1 on the first chain from the engine and 4.1 to 1 on the second. I added them up and came up with 7.1 to 1. I actually had about 12 to 1. So I have made a couple of sets of change sprockets to alter the ratios. Currently 8 to 1. I also changed my steering slightly by adding another track rod. This made the wheel angles better at full lock. I felt I would get a lot of under steer using the kart type of set up.
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I like the ball joints from eBay. M8 and all 4 were about 11 quid posted.
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Well, I don't think my maths are up to much. I had 3 to 1 on the first chain from the engine and 4.1 to 1 on the second. I added them up and came up with 7.1 to 1. I actually had about 12 to 1. So I have made a couple of sets of change sprockets to alter the ratios. Currently 8 to 1. I
Yes, you need to multiply them so 3 x 4.1 would have been 12.3 to 1. But I think if you now have 8 to 1 that's a very good ratio to start with.
Very impressed with your chassis fabrication!
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Thanks Chris. I have mocked up a fuel tank with card and cable tied a wheel to get an idea what size to make the tank . I will only be using tyres on the back because a wheel is heavy. I will make the brackets so the engine is covered a bit more but will also allow air flow.
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AWESOME BUILD!!!!!
Is this fuel tank you are mocking up going to be functional or just a cover for the engine? Also, I love the back wheel and chassis and the radiator is looking cool. Cant wait to see this progress.
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Thanks Marek, the tank will be just for show but a small tube shape proper tank will be hidden underneath. I will make it so it can be filled from the outside. This evening I have made one of the end caps from a bit of Ply and some ali strips . It's quite large but when finished it should cover the engine.
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I love the tank idea and the use of CAD (cardboard aided design). this is going to be quite the cyclekart, I love the dodge baquet as a car
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making a seat/livery similar to the original would look awesome aswell.
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Dummy tank almost finished and an old bmx wheel held on with a quarter turn fixing with some brass finials.
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that looks so cool. the BMX wheel doesn't look out of place or too small and the tank is absolutely splendid!!!
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Thanks Marek. I love this stage of the build. Making all the little adornments like the fuel guage. It's a bit of an armoured cable gland and I coloured in the dial ect on card then covered it with perspex. I also used the same thing for the radiator thermostat guage. The dodge has loads of adornments so that is gonna be fun. Really looking forward to painting all the signage on as well. When I paint the number on the side of the fuel tank I'm gonna drill lots of holes in the number to aid air getting into the fan.
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I have modified the brake pedal to make it more adjustable and give a bit more leg room. I am waiting on a bead roller from Amazon so I can start on the body work. I have some 1.2mm aluminium sheet left over from a couple of other projects so I will use that.
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Great work Jim looking forward to seeing the finished CK. Graham A.
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Hooray, the chassis is finished at last. I hope to paint it this weekend and start putting it all back together. Thanks for all the kind words, it is very encouraging and has kept me going. I'm still hoping to get it out for testing before the end of March.
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It looks great
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Very exotic, the face of our sport is moving in an exciting direction.
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I managed to paint the chassis and start making the floor last weekend. The satin black paint reacted with the primer and crackled. Luckily I'm not after a show finish.
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Don't worry about a bit of crackle finish, I worry about the paint finish on my CK
then I remember the brush strokes visible on a lot of the cars at the
Brooklands museum, and I feel a whole lot better.
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that may just be a lucky accident with the rustic/patina finish on the baquet. looks like a really interesting floor
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With the floor finished I put the car back up the right way and started reassembling it. I also made the bonnet sides from ali and hardboard that has the rear on the outside. This is so it looks like the canvas stuff on the original car. I will paint it white later.
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really superb !!! :o :o
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Looking very nice Jim!
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I have almost finished the bonnet and painted and couple of wheels. I fitted one of the new tyres 2.75 and like the block pattern on them. Ebay and 85 quid for the set. Started on the exhaust using some 27mm tube from a scrap bin.
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Great build Jim looking forward to seeing the next stage
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Beautiful Jim!. Looking forward to seeing it at Whilton Mill on 26th.
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Made the sides of the seat and tried to re-create the shape of the dodge. With only two weeks to wilton I am cutting it fine to get it finished.
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2 weeks of 'self isolation' should get it sorted!
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Really too beautiful !!! ::)
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Thanks for the kind words. It has crossed my mind to self isolate. ;D
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Replaced a couple of spokes and painted the rear wheels. Fitted a catch to hold the dummy fuel tank.
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From the back.
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Thanks for the kind words. It has crossed my mind to self isolate. ;D
I am supposed to for the next 4 months.
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It's looking great Jim, have you run it yet?
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Thanks Chris, I haven't run it yet but it is a new and mighty 6.5hp clone engine. Hopefully I will get time to fire it up over the weekend and try a test drive. If not it will be at Whilton mill, virus allowing. The 6.5hp engine will get a little tuning later if it turns out to be ok and the plan is to run that with the other cyclekarters. I have an old gx390 engine that I shall build into a nitromethane/methanol screamer to see how fast I can get the cyclekart.
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Won't be a cyclekart with the 390 :)
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All ready for a test drive but no where to go that is open to the public. I am lucky to have have a private road that is a loop only half a mile away so I can test there and keep my social distance at the same time. Hopefully next weekend.
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I meant to attach this photo to the last post but pressed the post button too soon.
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Jim, it looks a real treat and I see on Facebook it's running well too. I want to thank you for taking the time to post your progress frequently for everybody. Just what is needed to spread interest and enthusiasm. Hope we can all meet up soon.
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Superb work, looking forward to seeing it when everything gets back to normal.
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Looking great Jim, any idea of eight at this stage? Do I spot a diff in there?
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Thanks Rhys, I haven't guessed at weight yet but will probably take 3 to get it off the bench. I made the diff case and used the gears from an old quad bike.
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Thanks Jim. I'm just curious why people use a diff when it's been rejected by the long term cyclekarters as a "not good idea".
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I put a diff in because it will help with under steer in tight corners and it will be easier to push when turned. I don't have a diff in my dragster and it can be hard work pushing it with the steering turned. The other reason is just because I can and it was fairly easy to do. Also I had most of the bits lying around so it was cheaper than buying a kart axle.
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Do you have 2 brakes then Jim? 1 each side outboard of the diff, otherwise only one side is braking, unless you have a cunning plan.
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Yes I fitted two vented discs, one on each half shaft with twin pot calipers. They were from some sort of 125 Chinese bike that I was given because the engine had seized. It turned out to be a bit of a god send as I have used loads of bits from it on the kart and other projects.
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I have some brown diamond pattern material left over from the electric trike I built a couple of years ago. It is bit new looking for the ck but it is all I have. If you guys think it looks really terrible, I will change it in the future.
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Well personally I recon, by the time you've leapt in and out, out and in a few hundred times that'll ware in beautifully. Don't worry about it I can assure you, you don't notice these things when your driving them :-)
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It has been a while since I have looked on here and wow! That is looking so cool. And you have made so much progress! very jealous and impressed indeed :)
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Well it's been a couple of weeks since I put a post on here. Unfortunately due to the corona crisis my work has gone mad busy and I haven't done much to the kart. I did get to test it round the garden and everything went really well except the clutch slipped a bit up hill. So I changed the gear set to a lower ratio and it livened up no end. It seamed pretty quick to pick up speed. The suspension was a bit bouncy over the curbs so I have made a friction damper from a shoulder bolt, a couple of Belleville washers, a bit of conveyor belt, aluminium and some steel sheet. Bench tested ok. Now to make the other 3 and fit them.
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A pic of the first drive.
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I hope it wasn't too much like the last photo Jim :)
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looks great. How did it drive? all go smoothly?
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Jim, I confess that I have just seen your car for the first time today. I now realise that I need to keep looking regularly, I'm missing such a lot. What you have done is brilliant and I truly admire your work. I can learn so much from what you are doing. I think your sheet metalwork is knockout.
This virus is a terrible thing and I don't wish to make light of the situation when I say that its a great shame we can't see the results of all your work in the flesh for some time yet.
I, like Rhys, am locked down for three more months. At seventy two and with only half a kidney, I have to try very hard to stay well.
My workshop is four miles away so I can't get to do any more work on my Renault so I'm restoring the interior of my R170 SLK on the drive instead!
Brilliant job Jim, You can start work on my Duece anytime.
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Thanks guys. Marek, it drove pretty much just as I remember Grahams and Bills at Stretton and it brought back the big cheesy grin. I am looking forward to a proper test soon hopefully. How is your ck coming along? Have your exams been cancelled and will you get your predictive results? Adrian I thought the pictures of your ck that I saw the other day were great. Amazing work on the wheels and the attention to detail was first class. Definitely best to stay safe at home. My Dad is vulnerable and we have no idea what his body's reaction will be if he catches the virus. Hope to catch up again soon.
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So what's your car's number going to be Jim? http://www.cyclekartsgb.com/ck-number-register/race-number-register
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my kart has had little to no progress recently but starting tomorrow dad and i are back to it. very excited to see your kart as soon as this is all over :)
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Fitted the front dampers today.
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Nicely done!
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talk about attention to detail!
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Thanks for the nice comments. Here's a pic of the lh rear damper. They are adjustable so hopefully one day will get the chance to set them up.
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I removed the governor and made a new throttle linkage. Made an air filter from bits of god knows what laying aroung and painted the covers green.
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I do like that you have a return spring on the throttle butterfly Jim.
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That is very cool. That simple detailing on the engine makes it look period and I love it!
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I made a back light this morning out of a tea light holder, a bell, a guage bezel and some other bits. Maybe not to everyones taste but it was cheap.
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I like it!
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Thanks Marek, I found a photo from a couple of weeks back. Hope it doesn't keep going upside down.
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is the brake light you made functioning? im trying to find ways that people are making functioning ones
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The light is only a battery powered led in a silicone rubber housing that would stretch around handlebars. A brake light is easy to put in using a pressure switch teed into the brake lines or switch that is operated by the pedal.
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I have bought one of those 38 quid gx200 engines off ebay and the quality looks the same as the other clone engine I have which is ok. I had an old carb so I reamed it out to 16.7mm and polished the bores. I removed a load of excess material from the throttle butterfly and got rid of the choke. I also drilled the jet to 0.9mm. I have opened up the ports on the head using a dremel, fitted 1.3 ratio rockers and 18lb springs. I filed the key to give 4 degrees more advance and removed the governor. This should hopefully be quite a revvy motor.
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I assume it has a 3/4" output shaft then, I did ask them, but have yet to receive an answer.
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Hi Chris, yes it has a 3/4 output shaft.
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Not 19mm Jim?
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I'm not sure Rhys. I haven't put a micrometer on it yet but I will when I get home from work. I'll also do a comparison with the other engine That's in the kart.
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Just curious Jim. As you probably know all the TAV units are imperial. At least getting a 19 mm shaft to 3/4 is not as difficult as getting a 25mm to 1 inch :)
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Measured the output shaft on the 38 quid engine and it was 19.00mm so an imperial tav should fit.
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Standard practice is to bolt the engine down and dress it down with emery tape while you run the engine until you get the fit I was told. Theoretically 19 mm is 0.748, I'm informed some of the TAV won't quite fit.
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Just checked and the metric equivalent of 3/4 is 19.05 mm, so it should be a slightly loose fit, just needs a bit of 0.025 shim.
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That's the theoretical Chris. all the ones I have had aren't quite that accurate.
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Hooray, a day off work today. I put the 38 quid engine in the kart last night. The weather looks like it might be nice today so a little test could be on the cards. Please remember folks, safety is important and when testing, drive it like you stole it.
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I managed a longer test yesterday and it pulled real well, Even up quite a steep hill. I need to make some adjustments to the rear dampers possibly because there is quite a bit of shake at low acceleration. Caused by a bit of bounce in the rear springs. I held the accelerater pedal at the point where it was at its worst and lost vision for a moment which made me laugh a lot. Hard acceleration gets past the shake quickly and it smooths out nicely. New choke fitted as well.
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Was the TAV a straight fit on the engine Jim, or did you have to shim it?
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also what is the story behind the metal mug on the engine ??? ;)
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I am using a centrifugal clutch and it fitted nice on the shaft without any shim. The metal cup is my new choke system. :)
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Thanks Jim, forgot you weren’t using a TAV, no matter, the fact your clutch fits without shimming has made my decision for me. A number of the bits that come with a standard engine will be no use for my next two builds, so rather than buying one Honda Gc190, I'll buy a couple of these while they’re available.
Chris
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I pulled the genuine Honda I have offered via here (£60 with everything attached, clutch, fuel pump.., no interest) off the shelf yesterday and found yet another shaft size for genuine kart engines, 23 mm!
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I painted the radiator a sort of brass colour. It's a tin of gold spray that was very old and I don't really like it but its all i have to hand. I will paint on lots of patina in the vain hope of improving it.
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French polish might do the job of antiquing it, you can always remove it with meths if you don't like the result.
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I think it looks appropriate, but that's cos I like the look of used cars!
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I painted the bonnet and one of the sides black satin car paint and a sort of turquoise that I mixed using Windsor and newton acrylics. I diluted it and tried it in an air brush hopefully creating a bit of patina.
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It's looking great. Love the paint effect.
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What friction material have you used in your dampers?
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I used some old conveyor belt material that was in the bin. I don't know how effective it is compared to other stuff but does dampen well. It cuts ok with sharp scissors and I have plenty, so if you want some I can mail it to you.
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If the conveyor belt doesn't work out, do the same as many of the vintage race cars (and my CK Hartfords) and use oil tempered hardboard, as used to beon the bottom of drawers and back of cupboards. It works perfectly with no snatching as most other materials do.
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The paint has been rubbish on the kart. Every time I go nearby it gets rustier. It hasn't even rained.
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that is absolutely stunning!!! also what is the mysterious motorbike in the right of the picture?
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Thanks Marek, the bike is an old honda cg125 that I converted into a flat tanker, board tracker type pit bike.
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really cool, great work Jim!
So frustrating that we can't play yet.
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The car looks good Jim, not sure about the driver :)
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Great looking car Jim the paint work is a brilliant job. 👍.
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The car looks good Jim, not sure about the driver :)
I don’t know Rhys, I think he suits the car.
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Thanks guys. I do feel as decrepit as the car looks. Lol. The paint was dead easy. Black satin base lightly sprayed and purposely patchy. I next used a cheap airbrush with about a 0.5 nozzle to spray some cocktail of turquoise acrylic I mixed up. Again patchy I sprayed the centre of the panels and finally I am still going over it with some burnt umber in small areas at a time to give the rust colour. I will seal it in when it looks like it has almost completely rotted away.
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Jim, How is she doing? Will you have it fixed for our next meeting in August? :)
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Hi Adrian, I fixed it a couple of days after the event and tested it out at a local classic car show. Which turned out to be good fun driving it round the show field. It is a good venue that is available for hire. I am looking forward to the next stretton meet and chucking bits of my kart at anyone trying to overtake. In the meantime I am racing at santapod this weekend and will take the kart for some fun. I might take it down the strip.
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Jim if you do get a run down the strip, make sure to record it. I am still awaiting details of the 'Corona Speed Challenge' recently highlighted in the 'CycleKart World Championships'. It is an event for individuals, so you would be a worthy entrant. :)
Personally I don't consider CycleKarts to be suited to all- out speed events..... But do what you gotta do!!
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Glad it's sorted Jim.
I have sorted the Renault and I'm just waiting for the diff bits. If they dont come in time then its one wheel drive (and brakes????)
I have increased the drive ration from 10:1 up to 7.8:1 so start throwing pal, I'm coming by!
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Hiya Adrian, glad you've got your gorgeous Renault sorted. I am looking forward to us battling it out at Stretton next week. I will be using my Dick Dastardly book of dirty tricks to keep you from over taking.
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I had a great weekend at santapod with the kart and the dragster to play with.
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Hey Jim. Fantastic. Is it your new paddock wheels?
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It is Graham. I am too lazy to walk around the pits.
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Hi. Glad its all fixed up, looks vwery good.
Hope you had some good runs with the rail. Looks like big daddy is in town!
:)
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Hey Jim, here's my drag car.
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Hi Dunworkin, that's really cool. I love the gasser look.
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I had a bit of spare time yesterday afternoon so I started making a handbrake lever. It is all from bits lying around the around the garage. The handle is an from an old file, lever from an old childs bicyle and the shaft is conveyor track barrier. Plus other tut found under the bench amongst more tut.
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Great way of doing it Jim, added to my file for when I need to make one.
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BRILLIANT Jim Like the ratchet setup, is it going to be operational?.
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Thanks Chris and Graham, It will be fully operational with either another cable operated caliper or a cable pulling on the brake pedal.
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it looks great. handbrakes (functional or not) add lots to a cyclekart in my opinion. levers and dials and big red buttons definitely make things more interesting
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I thought I would dig the filthy dirty kart out yesterday and show it a glimpse of the sunshine. I'd made a little screen for it some months ago but I don't quite like the fit. So I didn't bother cleaning it and rolled it back into the dark.
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The track at Castle Coombe was quite demanding on the bath chair. I unloaded it from the van last night and gave it a check over. I found a couple of loose spokes and the L/H rear wheel hub had worked slightly loose. The inner R/H front wheel bearing is a bit rumbly which is because its just a shielded bearing and not a sealed one. All the off road driving in the rain and puddles has probably washed away the grease. I have a few 6003 bearings and some are 2RS so it will be replaced with one of these. Oh the joys of regularly thrashing a CK lol. I think it will be worn out before me and I'm already dead in places. lol
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I do like a boat tail. Even though not on the inspiration car I have made a wire former from fencing wire and cable ties. The wires can be slid in the joint to try and get an even shape and tack welded when happy. I will use this as a former to make a tail from aluminium.
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Looking good Jim do you think that you might have cooling problems.
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It May well create a problem with no heat escaping Graham but I might put in some vent doors like Chris S.
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Thats one of the brilliant things about cyclekarting. If you fancy adding this that or whatever.... you can. and you can build a kart and then edit it in the future. looks like a nice tail shape.
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Boat tails are nice but I liked it the way it was. The dummy petrol tank and brass lamps were inspirational.
Build another one.
:>)
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Thanks Adrian, I will make it so I can swap them around and have both looks.
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Good idea lad!
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Hope you don't mind a fellow Cyclekarter from the Colonies jumping in here Jim. As Rhys and Chris know from
their participation in the CyclekartClub forum, me mutt gets me up in the middle of the night to take me for
a walkabout. So now that I'm wide awake and having a warm milk to maybe get me back to sleep....I thought
I'd see what was going on across the pond.
Just went back a year or so and read your whole build thread. Very impressed with your build. I see you
certainly did put that bead roller to work on the Dodge. And......you've really made use of what ever you could
find taking up space around the shop for the build. That's holding true to the Stevenson's original intent.
Had a couple of questions if it's alright. I see you've bent several sizes of square and rectangular tube for the
build. What sort of die/form or what ever are you using? It appears from the pictures, that some was bent cold
and some heated?
I'm forming the sub structure of my latest build, a 1925 Miller 122/91 using 1/2" x .058" square tube by heating
it and bending around various pieces of round stock I have on the shelf. Some of the very large radius I've run thru my HF Ring Roller.
How did that sprung rear axle work out for you, have you had any problems with the chain???. And....one more
thing, I see you and some of the other guys are using a centrifugal clutch instead of a TAV. No problems???
That hasn't seemed to work to well with the guys over here, probably because most of us are running gear
ratios much higher than what I've seen posted by you guys. We're typically in the 5's and many typically
run around 6:1. Pulling those 17" wheels seems to burn up clutches pretty quick.
Thanks and that kart really turned out great and I really enjoyed the photo journey.
Denny G
Sandwich, IL USA
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Hi Denny, Thanks for the nice comments and I'm glad you enjoyed reading the build journal. Some of the box section(square tube) was bent cold using a conduit bender a little bit at a time. It just kinked if I tried to pull it round too much. I also cut slits in some of the other pieces of box, pulled them round and welded it back together.
The rear leaf springs have worked out much better than I expected. I thought the movement up, down and tilting would chuck the chain off but I've never had a problem. Most likely because there is only about an inch and a half or so of travel. It feels very planted in tight corners and does smooth out most bumps.
I use a ratio of 12:1 between the engine and axle which can be changed easily with the lay shaft sprockets. Here In the UK we mostly use smaller tighter circuits than you chaps over the pond it seems. So the ratio gets me quick out of the corners but I lose out on top end speed. To compensate for this I build my engines to rev high and can get to about 35mph. The centrifugal clutch works well with this gear ratio and the only reason I used a centrifugal clutch was because I had one kicking about.
Good luck with building your Miller, they are a stunning looking car and I look forward to seeing a build thread for that.
All the best, Jim
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Tks for the reply Jim. Yeah, square section tube is a butch to bend cold. The ring roller as I said, does a nice
job on the large radius, that is, like 20-30". On the smaller ones like 3-6", which is called for at some of
the bonnet corners, I've found that clamping disks of similar diameter to the welding table and heating it
works pretty good.
I've duplicated the rear leaf spring that Miller used on all his cars thru the 20's, only mine are dummy springs
used as axle support members. But, the way I've built them, they could easily be swapped out for a real
leaf if I decide to do that in the future. Which.....I just might do as a matter of fact.
And yep.....we do tend to stretch out the distance over here. I don't know what sort of revs you're pulling
with your engine, but the Lifan in my Riley with stage one mods and a Mikuni runs about 5k (no governor)
and that will pull me down an open flat stretch a little over 50 mph. I'm running a 72/12 or 6:1 gear and
with the 17" Honda CT90 wheels, that would make short work of a centrifugal clutch.
I'd post a picture here but Rhys has mentioned before, that this is a site for you guys in the UK,
so I'll respect that.
However, I do have a build thread going on the cyclekartclub.com site, if you care to see it. https://www.cyclekartclub.com/forum/cyclekart-tech-forum.2/mothers-little-miller.61660/
Thanks again, and hope you guys get some seat time in before winter.
Denny G
Sandwich, IL USA
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Cheers Denny. I will have a look at the build on your link.
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I had a look over the old girl(the cyclekart) last night and It needs a couple of hours spending on it replacing some spokes, fixing a small oil leak from the crankcase gasket and putting the temp gauge back on the radiator shell. This is the same temp gauge we drove round Whilton track looking for. I will have to get a move on with it to be ready for Stretton in 5 weeks and East Midlands Steam show in 37 days.
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Sorry for opening an old tread.
I was just wondering what rear axle you used Jim ?
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That's ok Noel. I made the rear axle using the diff gears from a Chinese quad bike and then turned up a casing to hold it all together. I used part of the original half shafts to keep the spline for the diff and welded some 25mm bar to them and machined a keyway for the rest of axle. Hope that helps mate.
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Thanks Jim, at first I thought it was a Peerless with a different casing, any issues with flexing as its only supported at the springs ?