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Topics - Seven racer

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1
Tech Forum / Glassfibre time
« on: 22 Feb 23, 08:35 pm »
Hi,
Looking for a bit of advice from the glassfibre experts. I did the nosecone for the seven with a buck/mould and polyester resin with a gel coat.

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This seems to have been reasonably successful,  so it's now time to sort the tail.  I'm not going down the mould route this time, as it's big, and I'm not likely to need a replacement, (I hope).

I have made a former 3mm undersized, with the intention of putting two or three layers of 200g woven fabric on, and fairing the surface. The question is what resin should I use, epoxy, polyester, or vinylester?

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Is there anything I have missed or got wrong? And any idea on resin quantities?

Peter

2
Tech Forum / Chain clearance query
« on: 07 Jul 22, 05:05 pm »
Hi, a bit of assistance please from those who know what they are doing,

I am just starting to set up the rear end of the kart, and mount all the hot and greasy bits in a very small space.

I have what I think might be a solution to keep the packaging tight, but what I think might be a solution is probably far from reality, so I wonder if you can tell me if I'm in cloud cuckoo land, or on the right track. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so hopefully this video explains the idea.

https://youtu.be/245zXQ_zreM

Thanks in advance,

Peter

3
Tech Forum / Pedals
« on: 17 Apr 22, 08:59 am »
Many years ago I spent a day karting at an indoor venue, when we came out I roared off down the road on the industrial complex and came to a sharp left turn. No problem, a quarter turn on the steering wheel.....and nothing happened, no problem, quick dab with my left foot on the brake...... nothing happened as it just disengaged the clutch.

Which brings me to my point, there seems to be a convention that cyclekarts also go with the right foot, and stop with the left, when in real life cars go and stop with the right foot.

Is this because you need to both brake and accelerate a cyclekart at the same time?  or just convention? and if so, could you not just do both with the same foot, as with changing down with a crash box while braking?

The reason I ask is that I'm just looking at pedal placement, and as an automatic driver I would prefer to have the status quo of my left foot sitting doing nothing all the time. Otherwise, being a senile old git, I'm likely to bin the car at the first road junction when I leave a meeting :)

Peter

4
Build journals / 1936 Austin 7 twin cam racer
« on: 05 Mar 22, 08:09 pm »
5th March 2022  is a historic day for UK Cyclekarts. Having just returned from the first meeting to formalise the status of the previously ad-hoc arrangements of events it marks the start of a new era for UK cyclekarting.
Particular thanks are due to the founding group of UK Cyclekarters, who have not only put the UK scene on a form footing, but inspired new builders like me with help and advice.

But that's not the only bit of history being made today, it seemed an appropriate time to break cover with my cyclekart build, as the part finished chassis was at the Gaydon meet today.

Starting on Wednesday, in the form of a build diary covering the last 9 months, is the weekly progress of my build to date, and hopefully all the way up to completion.
There's a brief prequel video on YouTube, to introduce myself, and the kart build, you are welcome to come and join me on the journey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fblmtn3Bwd0

So wish me luck, the updates will be a week apart, on Wednesdays, I already have several months of video completed.
Next Wednesday I'm kicking off with an introduction, to give an idea of who I am, what makes me tick.

Peter

5
Tech Forum / Rear wheel bolts
« on: 21 Feb 22, 01:23 pm »
In my dim and distant brain I seem to recall that stainless isn't the way to go with respect to bolts under load. Is this correct, or just my befuddled brain?

And if so should I be ordering M10 high tensile for the rear wheel/hub arrangement? (Gemini 4 bolt hubs through Honda wheels with clamping plates.)

Thanks

Peter

6
Tech Forum / Gemini rear hubs
« on: 07 Jan 22, 06:52 pm »
Hi, another cry for help. :)

I have a pair of Gemini hubs, which I believe in hindsight I could have had supplied without the studs. However that particular ship has sailed and I need to remove them to fit to the rear wheels, any ideas?

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I think Jim removed his, but I'm not sure if it involved hydraulics or not, I don't have any sort of press, so is the answer to cut them off and drill out the ends? or is there another trick that would save me a bit of work?

Thanks in anticipation

Peter

7
Tech Forum / Front axle beam
« on: 31 Oct 21, 10:11 pm »
Hi,

The next stupid question is can I use a wooden axle?

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That got your attention! It's just the mock up I'm playing with, to sort dimensions of the axle stub ends, the real query is to do with my front beam axle, I have to attach spring hangers, similar to those shown below, but further inboard. Can I drill the axle for the bolts for the spring hangers, and weld them in, or will this weaken the tube? Or do I put a collar around the beam and weld studs to it?

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Thanks again

Peter



8
Tech Forum / Steering columns
« on: 31 Oct 21, 09:34 pm »
Hi,

As I get deeper I to the detail of a build I'm starting to bump up against a load of things that I can't find an obvious answer to in the files, (unless I've missed it).

First unknown is safety related, I have a detachable steering column boss which needs a 3/4" or 19mm steering column. Logic tells me that 1.5mm wall tube is the thing to ho for over solid rod. It's lighter, but is it safe? I think so, but I've never built a kart before!

Thanks,

Peter

9
Events / Advertising at static events
« on: 11 Oct 21, 07:11 pm »
We seem to have had a couple of Public events this year where we have static displays for the public. Having seen the Bicester pics, and the splendid advertising board that Andy B has produced I wonder if you think there is a need for boards for individual cars, to give details of the builds and inspirational cars. Not sure if A4 is big enough, but it could go up to A3.

I was tooling around with a mock up for my body tub the other day, and put a couple of offcuts together.

I have access to plenty of ply!
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If you want I can work on a design that folds flat, and sits under a wheel for stability, let me know if you think it's worth doing and I'll get into production for events next year.

Peter

10
Tech Forum / Final drive gears
« on: 09 Jul 21, 08:27 am »
Schoolboy maths, the Interweb Google thingy, and a total lack of knowledge of chains and sprockets, leads me to the conclusion that a 60t sprocket is about 250mm diameter, and a 70t somewhere about 285mm.

Am I somewhere in the ball park for the purposes of trying to mock up a rear drive chain and motor set-up with a torque converter?

Peter

11
Where to get stuff / Newbie wheels
« on: 01 Jun 21, 01:36 pm »
Hi,
No doubt the first of many stupid questions, although I have read the whole forum and thanks to that, got many of them answered already.

One of the first things I want to source are wheels, as they affect a lot of decisions such as axles, suspension and steering set ups.

Is there any reason I shouldn't be pushing the button on these instead of pit bike wheels?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Wheel-C90-Cub-93-03-using-210304-Shoes-Rim-1-40-x-17-/114506279622?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

And these for the fronts

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Wheel-C90-Cub-93-03-using-210304-Shoes-Rim-1-20-x-17-/114816258641?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

No point in getting something rubbish, but to the untrained eye they seem more cost effective than buying pit bike wheels (which for some inexplicable reason I'm not too keen on), or second-hand Honda wheels and getting new spokes and rims, because they are usually in poor condition. - But you may know different.............

Thanks in anticipation.
Peter


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