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Messages - Jimr1999

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Build journals / Re: MG M type
« on: 02 Apr 23, 07:35 am »
Looking sweet Nick

Build journals / Re: MG M type
« on: 01 Apr 23, 06:27 pm »
Yes to the bearings, you will also need new anti crush tubes between the bearings Nick. I don't know anyone using the Gemini clone TAV, but Hutt imports do one for about £85 delivered
The tube with care can be cut to length with a plumbers pipe cutter

Off Topic / Re: puzzle corner
« on: 01 Apr 23, 02:54 pm »
... And yet another entitled running up that hill...

Off Topic / Re: puzzle corner
« on: 01 Apr 23, 02:53 pm »
Answers to the last crossword...

Build journals / Re: Vale Special.
« on: 01 Apr 23, 02:27 pm »
I'm a big fan of the work too Noel!  ;)

Build journals / Re: MG M type
« on: 01 Apr 23, 07:25 am »
Hi Guys does anyone have any experience with Hyundai engines sold by Gemini karts?
Is it okay to use this engine? 212cc 7HP, also recommended sprocket size for rear axle.
an help or comments would be appreciated

Cheers Nick
... As for the ratios, well it all depends. I did quite a bit of reading about this and still am not sure if I got it right. I will assume firstly that you are running a TAV30 style torque convertor. I will also assume that your rear wheels are 17" pit bike or Honda style wheels as they should be.
If you search this forum, Rhys put up a post where he looked at the ratios the faster guys were running in the states whilst he was over there. IIRC the consensus was that TAV to rear sprocket was a 7:1 ratio (e.g. 10 teeth at the TAV30, 70 teeth on the axle, 420 chain) Some run 60 teeth, some use a jack shaft and take the ratio even higher.
If your gearing is too tall and you run a heavy cyclekart/driver, you may find yourself "bogging down" when exiting corners where the revs are not high enough to supply a reasonable amount of torque to the rear wheels to accelerate you as you might wish. If your ratio is too far the other way you may run out of revs before you reach an ideal top speed - the chances of the latter happening are perhaps smaller than the former on most of the courses we run.
Adding to the complications of gearing is how the variable drive TAV30 performs. You can change springs, weights and spring positions in them to have engagement not until higher revs and/or drive not maxing out as soon. I would start with stock TAV30 and work that out when you know how your machine performs. Last time I looked, Gemini were out of stock of 70T 420 platewheels.
I hope this helps, but I fear that it is just adding to the confusion. I am sure people with more experience than me will chime in, I might learn something so thanks for bringing this subject up.

Build journals / Re: MG M type
« on: 31 Mar 23, 06:15 am »
I have no experience with the Hyundai Nick, I went for the 3/4" shaft version of this which is also 212cc and 7hp stock
The innards of it are all metal and the valves are held on by the superior collet system. as stock.
The rule is you don't tune them over 10HP
Hope this helps Nick

Build journals / Re: BSA 3 wheeler.
« on: 30 Mar 23, 05:44 pm »
The cellulose dope is not compatible with the polyester fabric and, as it is nitrocellulose based, a little flammable. The base polyester is flame retardant 180gsm /6oz/sq yd so about what the canoe boys use. Aircraft would use a non cellulose dope, canoe boys a polyurethane based paint. But some use any household paint and it holds water. I will probably be looking to shrink it tight with a hot iron, as it seems to be what the canoe boys do and use a non shrinking but opaque paint otherwise the writing on the roofing membrane will show through. I thought of stenciling our logo on if it was a success.
Paint is quite expensive, for three coats (canoe grade) I would need about 2.5l. as the first coat needs to saturate the cloth. Floor paint is cheaper, but I have no feedback on its efficacy.

Build journals / Re: BSA 3 wheeler.
« on: 30 Mar 23, 08:43 am »
I started this next bit of the BSA project with no confidence that it would turn out good enough to use. It borrows from a 1920's Seers shed design, skinned like an aircraft wing or a fabric canoe and has an end based on a cupola I once built. It should end up removable on four heavy duty over centre catches, and may also double as a glamping pod IF it works. It is not in its final position in the photos as I need room to work on it. It will be further forwards on the trailer.
I had a lot of the materials left over from building the conservatory and my outlay so far is less than £100.
I intend to skin it first in roofing membrane and then in polyester 3m wide theatre set back cloth which is the perfect width with a bit of overlap and not too stretchy. The whole thing then needs paint. Which is where I find differing opinions on line. So if any of you have experience skinning canoes or aircraft wings with fabric, answers below please.

Where to get stuff / Re: Exhaust flange
« on: 27 Mar 23, 06:12 am »
Yes please for the tube Stefan, I got a flange from you at the AGM :-)
I will see you at Stretton (Unless Silverstone is a goer and I see you there first)

Build journals / Re: BSA 3 wheeler.
« on: 21 Mar 23, 02:25 pm »
Indeed Chris, a Lomax 223, which was very loosely styled on a BSA

Build journals / Re: BSA 3 wheeler.
« on: 21 Mar 23, 08:40 am »
My first ever "BSA" build. What a youth I was back then.🤣

Off Topic / puzzle corner
« on: 20 Mar 23, 09:43 am »
...And another themed on a period racing legend

Off Topic / Re: A puzzle for a bit of fun
« on: 20 Mar 23, 09:36 am »
Answers to last weeks puzzle

Build journals / Re: Vale Special.
« on: 19 Mar 23, 02:59 pm »
Looking the biz Noel!  ;D

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