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Messages - Seven racer

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I really hope so!

On the down size it's more weight and drive chain complexity, on the plus side there's a 1.3 to 1 reduction on the drive.
The biggest issue I'm finding at the moment is that the output shaft is inboard of the input, so I might be having to put a layshaft in.
The £50 option doesn't include the cables and lever though, so I went for the full version, but that still only cost around £119.

There are few on the internet if you Google Aston Martin blueprint, I think the one I showed was here:-

PS not sure if you have a drawing, but this might be close, it's a 1921.

I think it's still owned by Neil Murray, who was registrar of the Aston Martin register at one time, and is raced by his son I think. If you needed to find it or them the Aston Owners Club should be able to link you up.
Not sure what it's current state is, but when he first bought it the tail had been shortened by about 18", though I think he has had it rebuilt,  so some of your reference photos may appear to be giving you conflicting sizes.

Not experienced in these things yet, but from my deliberations of trying to get all the bits to fit, there does seem a suitably sized bit of room between the seat and the rear axle, something I'm fighting with at the moment! After that it all starts to get a bit difficult with the tapering of the tail. -  Looking forward to the build.


Off Topic / Re: What is a CycleKart?
« on: 31 Aug 21, 09:37 am »
A couple of observations from one currently starting a build, and therefore perhaps less qualified to give opinions than most if not all here :). So feel free to shoot me down  in flames, or tar and feather me at the next event I attend!

1. I thought there was already a defined set of guidelines to what a cyclekart was, (listed on the first page of the forum),  that notes the allowable modifications to the standard engines as carb, air filter and governor removal (and maybe a billet flywheel?). Surely if other modifications are made, any times set, or races won would not be valid, or are you saying that these modifications alone take the motor to 10hp? - If so, perhaps the only way to really get a grip on power is to adopt the French attitude of stock motor, no modifications.

2. Looking at Grahams machine I suspect  it has a considerable weight advantage which will aid acceleration, there doesn't look to be a lot of excess material anywhere, and what weight it has is very low down. Is that what is giving the performance advantage?

3 if you were to put an mph limit on, how would you police it? I seem to recall we have speed limits on our roads, and that works well! 
There seems no easy way to control top speed other than limiting engine mods, (and thus power), and I thought that was already done.

I suspect the issues of braking, and instability, are the consequences of starting to venture out onto bigger tracks/venues. Running on go kart circuits probably hasn't allowed the cyclekarts to stretch their legs properly, and show up weaknesses.

So as a bit of an outsider it seems to me that there are 3 options that are available, given that I don't believe you can police speed.
a. Restrict engines to stock unmodified.
b. Restrict running to go kart tracks, where there isn't room to get much speed up.
c  Embrace the new found freedom and speed, and work to improve handling and braking.

Maybe it's also time for a gentle look at scrutineering with new karts starting to appear? Those who know, and have some experience, could perhaps cast an eye over newly built entries to suggest potential issues, as a 'newbie' like me doesn't know what good or bad looks and drives like.

Can you let me know what you decide as I've got a Loncin on the bench and I need to know if I can rip the governor out or not in the near future :)

PS the most important part of your post for me was this.
"seven of us sat around the dinner table enjoying dinner (and a pint or two) talking about what a good day we had had both as individuals and as a group."


Along with Pilbeam, who pretty much dominated hillclimbing from the late 70's to the 90's,  Mike was an ex BRM and Lotus man, and set up in part of the old BRM works.

Events / Re: Southerly and South West; Builders meeting
« on: 23 Jul 21, 09:25 pm »
Don't move your centre of meeting for me, I have a daughter down in Weston, and thus a bed for the night,  and frequently run down to Taunton for Model Railway  group meet ups.


Events / Re: Southerly and South West; Builders meeting
« on: 23 Jul 21, 07:23 pm »
It sounds like a good idea, I would be interested to drop in to any meets in the SW, I am a fair way away up in Worcester, but it's only about an hour and a half to Taunton.


Thank you all for fantastic day out, I started out at  Gaydon plastering my chosen prototype with about 150 photos, then on to Castle Combe for a great introduction to the group.

Thoroughly enjoyed myself, the only dissappointment of the day was discovering that there was already a single seater 7 in the group! Looks like we might have the start of a Works team.

I had a brief look over the fence at the main track with Lambo's , Astons, Mustangs and Ferrari's, - no one seemed to be having half as much fun as you guys.

Look forward to the next meet, I won't be here for the August events, but hope to catch up with you all again later in the year, target is to have a rolling chassis by by this time next year as a minimum, in the meantime thanks again for the entertainment, and good luck at Brooklands and the speed trials.

I took a bit of video of my day, and have put a link below.



Tech Forum / Re: Final drive gears
« on: 09 Jul 21, 12:52 pm »
Many thanks Rhys, 

and yes, I had  thought about the chain, I just needed to make a ply ring to mock up on a 1" dowel to see how it all fits, but didn't want to find that I misunderstood  the 1/2" chain spacing, and get it seriously wrong at an early stage.

I'm used to a shaft drive🙂

Tech Forum / Final drive gears
« on: 09 Jul 21, 08:27 am »
Schoolboy maths, the Interweb Google thingy, and a total lack of knowledge of chains and sprockets, leads me to the conclusion that a 60t sprocket is about 250mm diameter, and a 70t somewhere about 285mm.

Am I somewhere in the ball park for the purposes of trying to mock up a rear drive chain and motor set-up with a torque converter?


Tech Forum / Re: Body Mounting (Bugatti Type 32)
« on: 10 Jun 21, 04:14 pm »
As another newbie I'm probably (certainly), not the best person to answer, but i have made quite a lot of other stuff, most of it lightweight.
There is very little room for supporting structure over the wheels on a 32 and I'm guessing you still need some sort of framework to attach the sheeting to.

If I were doing it I would  look at a couple of options,

1. go for a frame of 6mm steel rod, bent to shape and braced as much as you can, and which is a skeleton for the shape you need. I can't weld, so I would opt for no 2.

2. go for a laminated ply strip structure, again just a skeleton, but with the main side profile rail from nose to tail supported at regular intervals with vertical strips.

In both cases I would start with a base plate that sits on the chassis, though there will be complications at the places where the axles steering rods etc. cross the rails. (Unless your axles go through or under the rails).

Once you have something that sits on the chassis you can build up with risers and braces to the shape of the top rail that supports the top bodywork. It's also likely to need some cross members to hold it rigid, and again diagonal bracing. Think Birdcage Maserati.

I am currently working on using bulkheads at the front, steering column, and behind the driver to provide necessary structure, in your case if they were mounted on the base that sits on the chassis it would give key support points for the sides, though a separate independent steering column support would be needed.

Making it an opening clamshell might just give you more work than a lift off body, as you then get into hinges and extra structure to stop it flapping about when not attached to the chassis.

I think I would split it into a front section up to the front of the door position, and a back, to be less unwieldy? Not sure how often you would need to get at the front, but I'm guessing it's more likely that access to the engine is needed, and you wouldn't want to have to take the whole body off every time.

As one who knows naff all about these vehicles, but who likes lightweight structures, have a think also about 20mm plastic overflow pipe for support, there are several fittings available, though whether or not it would be rigid enough is up to the pro's to say, but I'm guessing that with the three bulkheads theres not going to be too much flopping around.

As I said at the beginning, I'm not the best person to ask, but it's good to know there's another builder on my doorstep! I'm still at the stage of printing out 200+ sheets of A4 to get a full sized plan, elevation, and sections for mine.


PS might you need an under tray to stop a lightweight body like this lifting, there's not much inherent strength in Corex if it gets airflow pushing it up?

Where to get stuff / Re: Newbie wheels
« on: 01 Jun 21, 05:25 pm »
Thanks Chris and Scotty, 1.4 inch it is then! I was just worried that there might have been a fundamental flaw in my logic as the wheels seem relatively cheap  but there wasn't much Honda alternative.

I hadn't thought about availability of tyres, though it makes sense to keep them all the same size, only need to hold one spare.


Where to get stuff / Newbie wheels
« on: 01 Jun 21, 01:36 pm »
No doubt the first of many stupid questions, although I have read the whole forum and thanks to that, got many of them answered already.

One of the first things I want to source are wheels, as they affect a lot of decisions such as axles, suspension and steering set ups.

Is there any reason I shouldn't be pushing the button on these instead of pit bike wheels?

And these for the fronts

No point in getting something rubbish, but to the untrained eye they seem more cost effective than buying pit bike wheels (which for some inexplicable reason I'm not too keen on), or second-hand Honda wheels and getting new spokes and rims, because they are usually in poor condition. - But you may know different.............

Thanks in anticipation.

Forum Members / Re: New member peterL
« on: 24 May 21, 01:16 pm »

I measured one of the twin cam monoposto Austin’s at the Motor Museum.  Wasn’t much bigger than a Cyclekart!  Underslung at the front if I remember correctly so super low.

Yes, I've just been looking a a drawing and at 3'8" track and 6'10" wheelbase I hadn't realised how small they are, looks like a very small scale down.

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