A bit more slow progress on the cyclekart this week, though some progress is better than none.

Having put it back together after the brake pipe fiasco, the fuel tank has now been fixed,

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the screen and firewall have also been fitted,

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and the reverse gear lever is now cabled up and fixed.

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I have also made a start on getting the dashboard layout resolved, and some of the switchgear installed, so that the wiring can commence.

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So we are getting ever closer to starting the engine.

Peter

One step forward, fifteen back.
Who would have thought that fitting a brake line could cause such carnage, this time yesterday I had a cyclekart that looked the part at the front

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and had engine and transmission all lined up, and the brake calliper mounted at last

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so a simple job then, to run the brake pipe along the void in the chassis rail, to keep it out of the way, except it had to pass through the rear bulkhead, and the fittings were too big.  No problem, just that it meant I had to drop the engine out, take out the engine support, bulkhead, and half the cockpit, only to find that I had forgotten that there's a bolt running through the channel at that point.

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By this time the cyclekart was back to kit form

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Back to the drawing board to re-route the pipe.

On a positive note the mini handbrake lever is now fitted, ready for connecting to a bicycle caliper acting on the main disc, to give a parking brake.

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Peter

A week ago I knew nothing about 3d printers

Then our Men in Sheds shed had a printer donated,  which I borrowed to make some letters for a project.

For a long time I had been putting off sorting spinners for my cyclekart,  as they would require a lot of fabrication in aluminium,  then along you come with a fully sorted solution!

I now know enough to be able to mess with other people's designs,  so dropped the height a bit, as the seven ones are a bit thinner, and just ran a quick print off, (well as quick as 3d printing ever gets).

The result, brilliant,  thanks so much it's solved my problems, and certainty the front one fits perfectly.

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I'm now off to do the full 21 hour job, the intention is to do one for each side, smooth paint, and do some resin casts that I can adapt to suit, thanks very much for helping to tick something off the to do list. The chrome paint is also at least as good as the polished aluminium would have been, if not better.

Peter

Thanks Rhys, really useful,

I did start out thinking epoxy was the way to go, having seen Dennis Thomas use it on his tail sections, but then was beguiled by cheaper options. I should have learned by now that cheapest is not always best.

I certainly wouldn't want to kill any of our members, so it looks like epoxy it is, thank you for that.

It should come off the mould, but if not there are a couple of cut lines on the original that I could use to my advantage. I think I can actually dismantle the mould from the headrest end.

You mentioned that the cloth might be a bit light, the advantage, ihope, is that it should flex off the mould better? but my thought process was that it might need a frame support anyway, and that I could always reinforce from the inside.

The thicker the initial skin is, the further it gets away from the shape on the mould, but let's see how it goes. It's fully supported all around the cockpit end, and I was intending to frame the base, so the most likely area of wobble will be the top section, where I'm hoping there will be room to stiffen, or even foam fill it.

Thanks again for the guidance, 8 years laying up trumps a couple of hours on the nosecone!

Peter

I think they are designed for schools, but the company that sells them offered it, along with some support to help us with dust extraction at the Shed. Hopefully it's bulletproof it will need to be!

Peter

Hi Noel,

Mine taper very slightly from 44mm to 44.5mm.

The depth is around 4.5mm before it curves into the backplate. Total projection of the hub is 7mm, including the bottom radius where it curves into the backplate.

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Hope this helps, if you need anything further let me know.

I have mounted with that face pointing inwards, as I am fitting dummy brake drums, and the four bolt holes are ideal.

Wouldn't mind a copy of the stl  file though 

Peter

Many thanks for organising this Stefan and Committee, - a very useful and interesting evening.

A couple of items from me that might be relevant,

The rear wheels I am using are ANF 125 clones, from Thailand I think, whether they are any good or not remains to be seen, but we'll find out at the first corner.
Bearings required were 37 x 25mm and proved a bit of a trial to source, I seem to recall, but otherwise they seem o.k.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115421011720?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oKsplXggSZy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=n3Xl8mAaSmy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Fronts were from the same supplier 32x17mm bearings if I recall correctly,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115492114322?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oKsplXggSZy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=n3Xl8mAaSmy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Around £50 per corner

With regards to the chassis discussion, while I am sure I could have learnt to weld, there are a couple of reasons I might have been interested in a ready built chassis.  Firstly I don't really have the time to start embarking on learning a new skill and buying kit that I might only use once. Then there's the cost of  a new welder, mask, goggles, gas, etc. never mind where to put it.

And finally there's the small matter of risking my neck in a set up I had welded!

In the end, I went down a different route, but from a speed of build, and cost point of view, it would have made good sense had it been available.

I did need some welding, but as Stefan pointed out, there are small fabricators who can help. I had aluminium axle ends TIG welded, a steel front beam axle and steering column welded, and plates laser cut for rear wheel adaptors for around £150, so it's relatively inexpensive.

Thanks again for a great evening, and a useful way for all the lone builders to exchange information and ideas, definitely one for a regular spot in the calendar.

Peter

They look to be as rare as hens teeth, unless you know anyone in the States that could get one and send you. It might be worth ringing Gemini, to see if they have any idea when they will get stock?

The only thing I could find, that was remotely likely was in Germany, but there are no shaft dimensions, I suspect you would get one shipped from there though.

https://www.beneduracing.com/en/starter-honda/847-honda-engine-ritzel-11-18-benedu-racing-for-all-your-kart-parts.html

Otherwise it might be worth considering going down the 420 chain route?

Peter