They look to be as rare as hens teeth, unless you know anyone in the States that could get one and send you. It might be worth ringing Gemini, to see if they have any idea when they will get stock?

The only thing I could find, that was remotely likely was in Germany, but there are no shaft dimensions, I suspect you would get one shipped from there though.

https://www.beneduracing.com/en/starter-honda/847-honda-engine-ritzel-11-18-benedu-racing-for-all-your-kart-parts.html

Otherwise it might be worth considering going down the 420 chain route?

Peter

The build gets back ontrack, after about a month off for holidays and other stuff.

I have spent a couple of days getting some final details sorted on the front end, the grille has been fitted, and I managed to get the bars test fitted.

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The bonnet is now finally fitted, and the dummy header tank fitted,

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Next up, sorting curved louvres on a plastic bonnet, time to start cheating......

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Peter

 

Having emptied the garage temporarily, to get the boiler serviced, I am now able to start reassembling the cyclekart.
It will need a strip down and reassemble  for paint, once I know nothing falls off, but I'm finding I am getting distracted by detail at the moment, so if I manage to roll the cyclekart please take the time to admire the aluminium bracing on the underside of the chassis, it's the only time you will ever see it.

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Peter

As an aside, I have noticed a couple of cyclekarts using a steering box, or Pitman arm operating one steering arm on the front axle, and a solid bar across to the opposite steering arm.

Is there any advantage, or disadvantage of this arrangement? The only thing I can think is that it might help with bump steer, but I'm really not sure, or why it's used as an alternative.

Peter

Wondering if you can steer me in the right direction on the reverse box Jim, I've hit a small snag as the spacing between chain drive and TAV belt differs between the engine and reverse box.
It appears that my input shaft to the gearbox has a shouldered section at the end, of about 9mm, which pushes the top TAV pulley out further.

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Because of the close proximity of the engine to the chain wheel, I can't just move the engine across, as it will foul the chain.

Thus I think there are three options,
To drill out a short section of the TAV top pulley to fit over the 20mm section of the shaft.
To take the gearbox apart and get the 20mm section turned down to 16mm
Or less likely, put a spacer on the engine end of the TAV drive to push the bottom pulley out the required 9mm, but there's not a lot of shaft anyway, so this seems the least desirable option.

Did you have a similar issue? Or does your set up allow you to move the engine across?

Peter

It's either a Lotin or an Austus

Peter

PS there may be a problem with inter-breeding, Colin Chapman did start out with an Austin 7.

Think this pic may help you Peter , Ref sizing. Its a standard 2 bike trailer. (with a separate chassis. ie not reliant on skids for strength) .
I just bolted the "Skids" as far out as poss to suit our CK track.

Thanks Chris,  it seems to be the answer for me, fairly light, and doesn't take up too much room.

Peter

Thanks Peter, the scuttle got a bit closer to a finished shape before I hopped off to Gran Canaria for our holidays,

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looking forward to getting back and progressing the build, the Bèdèllia is looking good, can't wait to see it in action,

Peter