Or this one from 1924...

The biggest tip I could give removing the governor would be wear gloves. The edges of the castings are sharp. The second biggest tip is to double check the engine after removal for any washers or bits of governor that might be in the engine - serious engine failure could happen.
There are many videos showing this on YouTube, with quite a few varying methods. Watch many.

Method one: Just disconnect it - drawback is at higher revs things could go wrong inside and bits of the governor might seize your engine.
Method two: Removal by sawing off the projecting bit of the governor arm from above (recommended as some don't quite punch through the hole whole and get stuck causing another problem) punching through, then tackling the inner gears by one of three methods. (A,B+C below)
A. Removing the flywheel and punching the governor spindle through from the outside. Care must be taken with this method not to crack the engine casing - costly if you get it wrong. Plug hole with bolt + loctite. You will need to lock the crank to achieve the recommended torque for the flywheel. - small chance of weakening the flywheel if you have to impact it to get it to let go.
B. Pulling the governor center cap off and trying to remove the split ring with picks and a screwdriver. I did mine this way and the split ring was an absolute pig to get out. I straightened out three of my picks then got angry with it.
C. And I have only seen one video of this method - I can no longer find it with a search on YouTube or I would post a link.- Clean the engine of all oil, (a brand new engine is easier to do) remove the governor center cap and washer, take the engine outdoors and have a fire extinguisher ready, use a long nosed MAP torch or the thing chefs use to brown off their creme caramels to melt the plastic gear and remove with long nose pliers or mole grips. (Perhaps the most extreme method) Then leave the split ring in place.

The next one I have to do I am going to try cut the plastic gear with an electric hot knife from a pyrography set I have for burning patterns into wood and see if that works any better.

All of these carry risk one way or another. Some karts run fine without governor removal. Your choice in the end.
If you find a better method, please share. :-)
Hope some of this helps,
JimR

Very pleased with my cheap Chinese diff.  I’ve added some output shafts and carriers for the sprocket and brake disk.

Morning Glynn, looking very tidy mate!
Two questions-
What is the black cup shaped thing that holds the sprocket off? I almost recognise it from somewhere but can't think where?
And Did you machine a spline on to the stub axles or weld them in?
JimR

A bit more this week, bloody cold in the garage so time spent has been limited to the sunnier days, The beginnings of an exhaust system (Thanks Stefan for the flange) with some curvy pipe work courtesy of an old handrail I used to have on the outdoors steps and a bit of cutting and welding, and the floor pan roughed to shape. A bit of sunbathing too!
JimR

This is a little different than you would build a cedar strip canoe. I had a book on that once and it was a painstaking job to get the laths to conform and fit. They used 1/4" (6mm) solid knot free cedar which had a radius moulded in on one edge and a corresponding cavetto moulded on the other edge to get them to join. That did for most of the laths. The fiddly bits were planed in by hand after sawing with a fine japanese saw. The clamping was done 1 strip at a time on the tight curves ad temporary pins were places in the ribs above the lath to help hold them.
If you have a ratchet strap, like the ones you tie things to trailers with, that would provide better clamping pressure for the ones in the picture (If you go around horizontally)but would not be suitable further up.
A technique from acoustic guitar building that has got me out of a tight spot a few times that might prove useful is to get a truck innertube from a tyre repair shop (Old beat up one) and cut the longest strip 2" wide you can from it. You just need to go around the torroid in a spiral until you meet yourself - this should give you at least 30 feet of rubber strap. Clamp one end, stretch and wrap. Each bind you put on adds pressure. I fractured my first set of guitar ribs with three binds, it can exert a lot of pressure if you are not careful.
If the laths are difficult to conform, lignin in timber softens at 80⁰c So a bath in a fish kettle on a barbecue would do the job for the timber (But perhaps not the glue in plywood - depending on resin used) - test a piece of lath first to be sure.
Hope some of this helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zh6-0Az-568

JimR

Welcome both, I think Tinworm is down that way too. He has a build journal here. Worth looking at
JimR

A bit more today...
https://youtu.be/FRCmctlBjwM
JimR

No one has anything from race the waves yet, Paul has told me we will be later as he has to talk to NORA the insurers about us and if our affiliation will afford us a discount or not. I would think it will be at least a week
JimR