Author Topic: grinding away some metal on the torque converter plate - yea or nay?  (Read 295 times)

Tinworm

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I have been playing with my torque converter and to get it hard up against my engine I think I may have to grind away some metal on the back of the mounting plate, as it interferes with some of the engine, near the rear oil filler. I have seen people doing this in videos, so I presume it is ok? Would you do it?

In the picture, my pencil is pointing to the web (for want of a better word)
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

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Tinworm

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removing some of the web, yea or nay?
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

StefanN

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Hmmm not sure about removing any of the webs.   On the engines I’ve seen, the oil filler plug sits a bit proud of the side mounting face of the engine but can be cut back to make it flush.   It’s an M18 thread on mine.   I 3D printed a plug with a recess for the seal and a slightly narrower head - but taking a knife to the original is just as good.

Tinworm

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I didn't get the impression that the plug itself was in the way and also don't think that the filler metal sticks out proud. It is more that the webs and (I really need to learn the vocab, here) the sticky out bearing housing on the back of the TAV clashes with it.

Incidentally, my engine is in a mid-engine configuration, so the axle is at the back. That means that if I am going to fit in the car, I can't have the TAV forward facing. Back facing there are lots of things to clash with. At present I favour having it at about 4 o'clock.
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

Jimr1999

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If it helps, I put mine at about 1 o'clock and got no clashes at the back. You have to have the headroom for it and be sure the chain line doesn't clash with anything but so far so good on my BSA
... You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead.

Tinworm

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If it helps, I put mine at about 1 o'clock and got no clashes at the back. You have to have the headroom for it and be sure the chain line doesn't clash with anything but so far so good on my BSA

Sounds good. Yours is mid-engined as well, isn't it? Does that make it "snug"?

I think the problem with 1 o'clock, for me, was a clash with the exhaust manifold, initially. I have removed that, but I think it would still be an issue.....and I still need to find a replacement, which needs room

When I thought about it before my TAV had arrived, I hadn't factored in the depth of that bearing/shaft housing. The variation in positions is limited by that.
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

Jimr1999

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I'm 6'4 ISH and if it were not initially a two seater base, I think I would have struggled fitting in. The driving position is similar to when I had a MK1 mini. Manspreading ;) the exhaust fits where I have mounted the engine that came as standard and I think a friend is fabricating one up to a pattern I made as we speak. The TAV is fairly tight to the firewall/seatback
... You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead.

Jimr1999

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Ah, I forgot to mention, my fuel tank will not be mounted on top of the engine but remote on the other side of the wheel
« Last Edit: 04 May 22, 12:31 pm by Jimr1999 »
... You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead.

jim

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I had to remove a bit of a web on a 30 series tav  backing plate when at the 4 o'clock  position for Andy B's cyclekart to get it to sit flush on the engine and haven't had a problem with it. It has done quite a few meetings being driven hard.
If you can drive round corners, you're not going fast enough.

RhysN

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I have done that on most of mine. You can cut the top off the dipstick, but it's not enough. There are 2 dipsticks in the engine, so just use the other.
We must avoid torturing our brains with false problems, it occupies but it can annoy. In jest!

Tinworm

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I have done that on most of mine. You can cut the top off the dipstick, but it's not enough. There are 2 dipsticks in the engine, so just use the other.

Yes, I plan on having a hole in my seat back / rear bulkhead to give me access to the "other" filler.
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

Tinworm

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I had to remove a bit of a web on a 30 series tav  backing plate when at the 4 o'clock  position for Andy B's cyclekart to get it to sit flush on the engine and haven't had a problem with it. It has done quite a few meetings being driven hard.

Very good to know, thanks Jim!
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

Tinworm

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Ah, I forgot to mention, my fuel tank will not be mounted on top of the engine but remote on the other side of the wheel

same here - moving my tank so that my seat/bulkhead can lean further back. Really like what you are doing, there, Jimr.

Incidentally, I presume that is a mock-up exhaust, is it? What will you be making it out of and how? Pipe bender?
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

Tinworm

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I have done that on most of mine.

encouraging
I don't want to bore you all with the details, here. But if you are interested, have a look at my blog https://peteskart.blogspot.com/

-Peter

Jimr1999

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Ah, I forgot to mention, my fuel tank will not be mounted on top of the engine but remote on the other side of the wheel

same here - moving my tank so that my seat/bulkhead can lean further back. Really like what you are doing, there, Jimr.

Incidentally, I presume that is a mock-up exhaust, is it? What will you be making it out of and how? Pipe bender?

I have given that pattern to a mate who has mad pipe skills and some steel, he says he will do it for me, I wait eagerly for the result. I just mocked it up 3d, it should have 3 stages if he has the stuff
... You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead.