Author Topic: The definitive guide to chains and sprockets  (Read 129 times)

StefanN

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The definitive guide to chains and sprockets
« on: 10 May 22, 10:37 pm »
There’s so many options out there for chains and sprockets that it would be helpful to have a guide to the benefits, pitfalls, compatibility etc of the different standards.

So, hive mind, what do we know?

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RhysN

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Re: The definitive guide to chains and sprockets
« Reply #1 on: 11 May 22, 07:47 am »
Here is the document from Reynolds chains in the MTWC archive.
I am guessing that most folks know that the first number on chain size is the number of 1/8" of the pitch, eg  2(19) chain is 2/8 =1/4" 3(5)chain is 3/8" etc,.
When you come to 4 series chain there are numbers of secondary and tertiary numbers, just because the pitch is the same does NOT mean that they will all match. As an example I have here a sprocket that turns out to be for 428 chain, 40/41 chain will NOT fit. Roller diameter and distance between the side plates comes into play and somewhere in there is the use of those other numbers.
219 looks tiny, but the vast majority of racing karts use it, and I was told a very long time back in CK terms that it's plenty good enough, although the disadvantage is that you need to use fixed lengths, joining links aren't common although they are available, as are cheapish breaker/joiner tools. You also need to be more fussy on alignment, and stopping axle/sprocket movement.
I had to learn the difference between "plate wheel" and sprocket. According to Gemini a plate wheel is the undrilled version, with no specified size of the centre hole. They say it becomes a sprocket when it's drilled to match a hub
« Last Edit: 11 May 22, 08:00 am by RhysN »
We must avoid torturing our brains with false problems, it occupies but it can annoy. In jest!

StefanN

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