Well I've done as much as I can before Westonzoyland, fitting the petrol tank went fine, unfortunately getting it running was a fail. I'll take it anyway, but the electrics have suffered from the time spent outside, so no sparks! Putting it on 17" wheels is a vast improvement, and my enthusiasm has been rekindled. Before and after photos attached.

Great to see you back at it Chris.
For anybody that's following and being inspired to use the front end as used on many UK hillclimb specials, the "real" Morgan in my shed uses 25 mm tube for the cross tubes (Actually 1") The diagonal brace on the same car runs from the bottom of the chassis to the top outer junction, and is 6 mm rod in tension. The vertical pin is 19 mm (3/4) and I got mine from the local hydraulic repair shop, they are the hard chrome bar used in hydraulic rams, available in a huge range of sizes and cheap! Many Morgan owners use steel bushes on the sliders with no issues over tens of thousands of miles, just regularly lubricated. Of course Morgans were an era when greasing joints was a weekly job, and oil changes less than 1000 miles.
I posted spring data on my "Alternative Axle design" if anyone wants. The springs were all UK sourced. The rebound springs, as on the Morgan are softer than the main ones.

Continuation of the rebuild, rear tyre swapped over, and the whole thing mocked up, about 5" shorter overall but I've also gained about 4" legroom. Once the pedals are sorted I should gain at least another few inches, making it more drivable.

I'll have you know I'm 5'6", tall for a Welshman! Yes though, it'll mean that someone quite a bit taller than me will be able to drive it.

Thanks Ian, the aim is to get it rolling for display at Malvern. Get it running by the WZL meeting, hopefully bodied by the end of the year.

Finally got round to making some more progress, even if it did mean hacking more bits off. The good news is that the seat is now far enough back that someone taller than me will be able to drive it. Changing the pedals will mean that there's no need to alter the steering, other than mounting the rose joints below the steering arms. Once the back end is done I can turn my attention to making new sliders to sort out the excessive and mismatched camber.