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Messages - RhysN

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1
For sale and wanted / Cyclekart posters
« on: 11 Jan 26, 12:10 pm »
As I have gathered posters that were going to be in my CK man cave, that's not going to happen, would anyone like them?
So far I have stumbled across 4 from the Huntsville Grand Prix, 1st thru 4th, I know I have a number more.

2
For sale and wanted / Re: Reference books
« on: 06 Jan 26, 02:46 pm »
hello did you sell the exlibrary reference  book?

if not id be interested
Hi, no not sold. Sorry for the late reply, I am just back from Canada.

3
For sale and wanted / Re: Parts clear out
« on: 11 Dec 25, 05:00 pm »
Axle bearing sets were over priced! £10 /pair
As son has emigrated I now have his valve spring compressor for small engines, Laser tools if memory serves me. Used once on his CB400/4. Message if interested.
I still have  much of what was listed.
I also acquired a sheet of bendy ply today if anyone wants pieces, tell me the size and I will figure sending cost (material is free)
I also have silicone bronze brazing rods, a large packet which I can do smaller quantities, again let me know what you want.

4
Forum Members / Re: New member matt
« on: 09 Dec 25, 10:23 am »
I'm in Tamworth Staffs so not too far away either. Always on for a chat and a cuppa if you want. Being semi retired anytime sort of works.

5
Tech Forum / Re: Ackerman - with Gemini front axle
« on: 09 Dec 25, 10:15 am »
Ah, that old Ackerman topic, it comes up quite often. None of the racing cars I have been involved with for over 50 years use it. It doesn't even get mentioned in most racing suspension references. All sorts are used. The dirt oval cars that slide a lot use reverse ackerman, the Formula Fords I was involved with had zero. Always your decision, IMHO nothing is totally correct, nothing is totally wrong.
Rack position can affect bump steer, that's much more important to get as near zero as you can. Build in a means of adjusting, and play, the best way to learn what works is by experimenting.

6
Hi Steve. having been around these things for a long time I can say that the focus has changed. Way back when, folks were attracted by the simplicity, over the years they have become more complex (heavier) and have gained a different aspect. The original Stevenson had one wheel drive, as do the majority of the ones I have driven both in the US and NZ for example. Those original were through the frame tube, it wore out a hole saw achieving that.
Where the rear axle goes, either through the frame, over or under is usually dictated by the front axle curvature and spring set so that the chassis rail is more or less level. Some cars are built low, some not so and in the case of my Napier for example, it's following 2 things. 1, what does the inspiration car look like, and 2 I am using the US guidelines which mandate the seat height above the axle. As a result it's high.
It's entirely your call. For me, my first car was through the rail, subsequently they have varied.

7
These parts can be welded on, on the Napier I have extended them. https://www.okeparts.com/collections/axle-parts/products/drift-trike-go-kart-oke-30mm-rear-axle-bearing-hanger-kit, they do have them in different axle size sets.

8
Build journals / Re: Napier 1903 Gordon Bennett
« on: 07 Dec 25, 04:36 pm »
Now that my full size Morgan has departed I have space, finances and the will to do something to get the Napier running. This afternoon actually got a few hours spent, so a floor for the footwell is 90% made, both pedals getting close to mounting and a few niggles with the bodywork  sorted. Seat is bolted down. Of course all that means that it looks exactly as it did months ago!
Then this arrived! Advertised as a bicycle lamp! Coffee cup for scale, I had planned on using it for a brake/tail light. Maybe not. I will now have another go with the home Nickel plating again . The method is to be found somewhere on these pages. It was originally nickel plated, front glass is perfect and the reflector plenty good enough. Dismantling has begun, I stopped when I couldn't spot a good way to take out the reflector.

9
Tech Forum / Re: Engine kill switch
« on: 28 Nov 25, 03:44 pm »
My opinion, FWIW (probably nothing). If there's a key as in multitudes of motorsport vehicles as long as the key position for off is clearly marked in much the same way as required for the other forms, why not?

10
Well written Jim. It's great to see things written with clarity.

11
For sale and wanted / Re: Parts clear out
« on: 25 Nov 25, 09:12 am »
I will message you on the forum system

12
For sale and wanted / Re: Parts clear out
« on: 21 Nov 25, 01:32 pm »
Hi Dunk, yes I still have them, I haven't done anything about casting another yet though.

13
For sale and wanted / Reference books
« on: 27 Oct 25, 08:21 am »
As well as the parts clearing I am going to be reducing my motorsport library. I have in excess of 250 motorsport books! Most of them made the journey from NZ, but also more, as when I choose another inspiration car I find the relevant books. Eg I have "Blitzen Benz", "Napier, the First to wear the Green" "Parry Thomas" and of course a load more.
To start "A Pictorial survey of Racing Cars between the wars 1919 to 1939"  it's an ex library reference one hard back with literally hundreds of photos, many of cars that have little history but would be great inspirations. £20 posted

14
Off Topic / Re: Lifan Engine
« on: 27 Oct 25, 08:13 am »
For one I am interested. I ran, at one time 10 of these in very harsh conditions, and very hard and never a problem. They have been my preferred engine.

15
Tech Forum / Re: Lessons Learned - Safety
« on: 17 Oct 25, 07:34 am »
.@RhusN
A worthwhile thread to read all through, after 50+ years in motorsport (scrutineer & entrant, builder) and a few working with Helicopters I would be worried about the number of loose fixings
Radiocom, I have been round motorsport in many roles for over 60 years now, car builder, driver, scrutineer and last role in NZ National Speed steward. My role now in UK is involved with top level motorsport seats (supplier to Prodrive, Porsche McLaren) and go to seat testing for FIA quite regularly. Just saying.
As I said in my previous, just trying to understand what happened so that as per the title "Lessons Learned", so far I am no further informed.
@ Granville, thanks for the correction, still a massive chunk of steel. It's a very long time since I have seen an M8 bolt break as per the photo (if ever) although I was able to break some with standard spanners when they came from China, marked as 8.8 but soft as butter.

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