I just wanted to throw this out there, as I am quite new to printing, however I have already noticed a few things. 
Some I am looking for input into, others are things I have noted that may help others.

The filament finish at 0.2mm layers, is not bad at all. I did wonder if there was an easy way to smooth it a little bit more?
I am talking re functional CK bits, not small models.
Obviuosly sand and fill and paint is one way. I was more thinking just to tidy edges and knock the worst of the high points off.
I had heard that Ethyl Acetate (In some nail polish removers) was apossibility.

I have also noticed that on the free model sites, several of the parts are very slabby, with sharp corners and edges.
One of these I printed. The sharp corners making stress raisers, so it cracked. Is there a good glue and putty for PLA repairs?

With a friend, who is further advanced than myself in starting a build, I am helping him to initially create a 1/10th model of his CycleKart. I say model, as it will be more of a design and layout aid, rather than a full rendition of his proposed Kart.  People with a printer will know that in the slicer program you can set the scale. So if you find full size CAD models. It is not a problem.
The initial need was to find some Pit Bike wheels/tyres. I came across such a model on a USA site.

https://www.cyclekartclub.com/forum/cyclekart-tech-forum.2/pit-bike-17-wheels-cad-drawings-analysis.68720/    Too complicated to 3D print, as essentially too detailed.
I also found CAD for a GX200 engine.  https://grabcad.com/library/honda-gx200
Not essential as these things could be just a block for such a layout model. Bit of fun anyway.

I dont know, it will be for the committee to say. The reality is there is a 10hp max anyway.
 It might be worth somebody researching why JCB have opted for the few more CCs. As I uderstand it the engine is new to the market and cannot be purchased until it's release.  Shipping after 10th December, earliest.
There will be a reason why it is 224cc. Either the applications need that capacity to make the required power, or it must come under a certain cc size to sell under whatever emissions it has to meet.  I think somebody needs to do a bit more digging on this. I am very certain that it will have been launched as a worldwide spec and somewhere in the world, will be why it is what it is.

I am surprised an ex Karter has not mentioned it.

I don’t know the true answer however if you go to a kart race centre where you hire the kart and track. ( eg works do). Double foot operation is a Black Flag offence that if you are caught more than once you are disqualified from the race. Basically I think you are forcing the belt to slip, so will probably burn out in short measure.  Hence the renters making it a Black Flag.  If you own the kart and kit. I guess it is up to you.  It is not a clutch though that is designed to slip. At starts we all used to 2 pedal a bit to get a better take off.  Quite transient though.
Hope this helps.

Brit bikes have always been left foot rear brake.

Probably try to get a drive in a CK.  Next thing to do on my list.
Rgds

Just wanted to say a big thank you to Stefan and Mark for holding the day.
I had a really good and useful time talking and chatting with everybody.

Things came out that you would not even think about from such a day. Eg noticing how some of the karts arrived and vehicle they came in.  Worth a thought on how to transport it around, before you build it.

Great sausages in a roll Mark. Very tasty.

Until another, within my travel range.

Highly recommend people to attend one.

Many thanks Stefan,
That helps. 
I had understood the “regions” were a test exercise. 
There seems to be a few people now in the East area.
At least 2 that I am in touch with now 👍.

I intend to come along on Saturday to the workshop.
Even though a ways ( mainly the M25 pain)  from me. I have family in the area, so can break the trip up.

Do I need to book or inform anybody, that I will be there?
Should I bring anything, in addition to notebook, pen and camera?

Regards
Richard
It will be good to meet some people and have a chat.

Hi Graham, what you said I think is exactly the case.

when you get the chance to watch the YouTube Video, the American shop who sell both the Comet and a better Chinese one, explain the differences and show you.
Like Gemini in the UK, he says they are happy to sell one of the better Chinese ones, in terms of reliabilty.
(He also explains, that when they contact their Chinese suppliers, they are asked on a scale of 1 to 10 the quality of the part they want.
This American shop says they buy an 8 and are happy to sell it at the much lower price of a good clone part.
He also says when you just buy a generic Clone off E bay, you dont know exacly what level it is re quality and materials.
He was equally accepting that for many people, who are not hard users and really do not want to pay the premium for a Comet.
A good grade clone is fine and if they did not sell it, the customer would buy elsewhere.

If you watch the detail of the video, it explains the fit, tolerances and play differences, as well as the "geometrical" and finish differences between them.

Fully understanding of course that a Comet is more aimed at serious track/off road race Karts. As opposed to CycleKart users that are not necessarily looking for the outright speed and acceleration and hard use.

Regards

I can maybe shed a bit more light on this for you.
I am not a materials expert, however.

Ironically Pembleton cars, got their name from the similar but different caravan name that was the donor of it's alumin panels that made the first prototype. The caravan company still exists tody and is called Pemberton.

Anyway, all Pembleton cars are specified in the build manual as using 1050 AH 14         1.2mm thick.
Some people do add accessory bits in 1.5mm or even 2.0mm. usually brackets or strengtheners though as it a lot "tougher" to work.

Annealing aluminium, is a skill you should aquire. Edge trims and bent brackets require multiple anneals, as it work hardends so quickly. You will find that just because it bent OK, it does not need annealing.
Yes it probably does. These types of cars running on grass vibrate and with the bend already work hardened fatigue fractures can easily and do happen.
Buy decent pop rivets. Decent ones consistently break when fitting at the same tension.  So if you have say a neat line on a bonnet. It looks like a neat line. Cheap ones are inconsistent. the stem breaks early, before pulley down properly. Or breaks late almost half pulling the rivet through.

From the Pembleton build manual on annealing aluminium.
See page attached in photo.

Good luck, I am no expert.
I am a mechanical engineer, but have gleaned a lot of stuff from
other people over my 3 years of ownership and running a CycleCar.
Yes it is on a road car, but I have seen several broken headlight brackets and mudguards
 and stays on other cars 200 miles from home.

I saw the post from the person with the Morgan.
Also there will be a number of other car builders on here.

Regards
Richard